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服装厂面料检验之四分制

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服装厂面料检验之四分制PROCESSEDFABRICINSPECTIONUNDER4-POINTSYSTEMAllfabricinspectionsconductedbyTextileLinksandControlsisaccordingtothefour-pointfabricinspectionsystem.Thefour-pointsystemderivesitsnamefromthebasicgradingrulethatamaximumoffourpenaltypointscanbeassessedforanysinglede...

服装厂面料检验之四分制
PROCESSEDFABRICINSPECTIONUNDER4-POINTSYSTEMAllfabricinspectionsconductedbyTextileLinksandControlsisaccordingtothefour-pointfabricinspectionsystem.Thefour-pointsystemderivesitsnamefromthebasicgradingrulethatamaximumoffourpenaltypointscanbeassessedforanysingledefectandthatnolinearmetercanbeassignedmorethanfourpointsregardlessofthenumberofdefectswithinthatpiece.PENALTY.POINT.EVALUATION:Defectsinbothwarp/filldirectionswillbeassignedpointsunderthefollowingcriteria.DefectRaH父八PointsEvaluation1PointPointsPoints4PointsUpto3inches3inches<6inches6inches<9inches9inchesWHAT」SADEFECT?_Thelengthofthedefectisusedtodeterminethepenaltypoints.Onlymajordefectsareconsidered.Amajordefectisanydefect,iffoundonafinishedproduct,wouldclassifytheproductasaB-grade.Anydefectofacontinuousnatureshallbeassignedfourpointsforeachmeterinwhichitoccurs?Severedefectsareassignedthemaximumfourpointsforeachmeterinwhichtheyoccur.Example:Regardlessofsize,aholewouldbepenalizedfourpoints.Continuingconditionssuchasbarre,sidecentersideshading,rolltorollshading,narroworirregularwidth,creasing,unevenfinishshallbecountedfourpointsforeverymeterwithintheshipmentthatisfoundtocontaintheseconditions,providedthatthearticlethatistobemadefromthisfabricisclassifiedB-gradeduetothisfault.Themaximumpenaltyforanyone-metershallnotbemorethanfourpoints.AminordefectisanydefectthatdoesnotclassifytheproductasB-gradebecauseofeitherseverityorlocation.Wheninspectingfabricbeforecutting,itisnecessarytoratequestionabledefectsasmajor,sincetheinspectorwillnotknowwherethedefectmayoccurontheitem.Runninf.Defects:_Anymajordefectfoundtorepeatand/orruninacontinuousmannerwillconstitutearunningdefect.Allmajorrunningdefectsmustbeassignedfourpenaltypointstoeverymeterintherollwhereitoccurs?bull_Width_Defects:_Afullwidthmajordefectwouldcausethatmeteroffabrictobeassignedfourpenaltypoints?Fabric.Width:_Fabricwidthwillbecheckedminimumofthreetimesduringtheinspectionofaroll(beginning,middleandendoftheroll).Rollshavingwidthlessthanthespecifiedarepotentialproblems.Insuchcaseswidthdeviationofmorethan1%wouldconstituteamajorfault.Overall,fabricwidthismeasuredfromoutsideoftheselvagetotheoutsideoftheoppositeselvage?Roll.Length:_Rollshavingmeterslessthanthatstatedonthepackingareaproblem.Anyrollhavingmorethan1%lesserfabricthanthatspecifiedisrejected.Theentireshipmentshallberejectedifthetotalmeasuredmetersinthesampleauditaremorethan1%shortthatwhatisdeclaredonthepacking.Splices:RollscanbeposedofseveralsplicedpartsNorollshallbeacceptedthatcontainsasplicelessthantwentyfive(25)metersinlengthunlessotherwiseexpresslyaccepted.Ensurethatthe95%oftheshipmentcontains100meterplusfabriclengthifthefabricisbeingusedformade?ups.Incaseofpiecegoods,thefabriclengthandthenumberofsplices/rollarestrictlyfollowedaspertherequirementofthecustomer.Bow_&_Skew:_Norollshallbeacceptedasfirstqualitythatexhibitboworskewmorethan:DesignDeviationPrint/dyesUpto45inches2.0%2.0%60inches2.0%2.0%2.0%90inchesandabove2.0%Theaboveissubjecttochangeifbuyerrequiresatightertoleranee/natureofdesign/enduseofthefabric.Toleraneeforbowedconditionnotaffectingthefullwidthwillbefractionalizedpartofthemaximumsasstatedaboveaccordingtotheareaaffectedbythebow.Penaltypointswillnotbeassignedforfabricsfoundtohaveconditionsofbowinginexcessoftheabovestatedtolerancesbutshallbenotedintheinspectionreport.Andifanyfabricexhibitsboworskewwhereitsendusebeesdoubtful,thenthatfabricwillberejected.Fabric.Odors:_Norollshallbeacceptedthatexhibitsobjectionableodors?Holes:・Alldefectsthatbreakthefabric,regardlessofsize,shallbepenalizedamaximumoffourpoints.Aholeconsistsoftwoormorebrokenyarns?mon.Fabric.Faults:_Althoughfabricfaultsarenumerousbutsomeofthemonfabricfaultsarementionedbelow:AbradonMark:Aplaceinthefabricwherethesurfacehasbeendamagedduetofrictionorabnormallyweakenedbyanyoperationthroughwhichithasbeenpassed.Whenthefillingyarnslyeinanarcacrossthewidthofthefabric.Skew:Distortionintheconstructionofthefabrici.e.intheyarnthatconstitutethefabric.Crease:Afabricdefectacrossthefabricwidthusuallycausedbyasharpfold.OilStain:Oilmarkonthefabric?DyeStain:Anareaofdiscolorationduetoun-evenabsorptionofcolorant?Hole:Abreakinthefabricinvolvingmorethantwoyarns.Mispick:Apicknotproperlyinterlaced?DoublePick:Twoyamsrunningsimultaneously,mostlyintheweft?Misprint:Inprintedfabrics,eithermissed,orpartiallymissed,orincorrectlypositionedrelativetoeachother.Slub:Anabruptlythickenedplaceinayarn.ScreenOiH:Theappearaneeofacoloredseparationlineinaprinteddesign.CalendarLi”Sharppressmarkonfabricduetothecalendarduringtheprocessing.ContamigtiomColoredfiberswiththewarporweftfibers.boiNT.CALCULATIONS:—Thefollowingfabricpenaltypointgradingstandardsaretobeusedwheninspectingfabrics.IndividualRollPoints:Alldecisionsarebasedonasquaremeterputation.Thefollowingisusedtodeterminethepointcountforeachroll.(Totalpoints*3937)/(Inspectedmeters*Fabricwidth(inches))=Pointsper100squaremeter.Points:Thetotalpointcountpercontractfabriciscalculatedby:Addingthenumberofmetersaudited?Addingthenumberofpointsperlinearmeter.Thenconvertingtheabovetotalsfrompointsperlinearmeterstosquaremeters?(Totallinearmeterpoints*3937)/(Totalinspectedmeters*Fabricwidth(inches))二Shipmentpointsper100squaremeter.ThemaximumapprovedpointsasperTextileLinks&Controlsforpiecegoods/made-upsfabricis15/100squaremeter.Andforgreigefabricitis10/100squaremeter.Orthiscouldbefollowedasperthestandardsgivenbythecustomers.INSPECTION-QUANTITIES:Aminimum10%quantityoffabricforeachcolorway,design,fabricwidthorfabricconstructionlistedagainstaparticularcontractmustbeinspecte(?Incase,ifanyproblemarisesinanyoftheabovestylethenithastobere-inspectedanother10%?If(heproblemisstillpresentandthepointsexceedtheacceptablelimit,thefabriclotistoberejected.ROLLS.SELECTION.PROCEDURE:—Thepersoninspectingthefabricmustcounttherollsoffabricagainstaparticularcontract&takeout10%ofthefabricrandomlyinsuchawaythateverycolor,design,fabricwidth&fabricconstructionisaccountedfor.FABRIC」NSPECTION.PROCEDURE:—Thisprocedureshowsthestepsnecessarytoensureaneffectivefabricinspectionqualitycontrolprogram:Determinethefabricquantitytobeinspected.Selectthefabricrollsforinspection.Placethefabricroll/baleoninspectionframe/table.Cutoffa6-inchpieceacrossthewidthofthefabricfromthebeginningoftheroll.Markthispiecesothattheinspectorwillknowtherightandleftsideofthefabric.Usethestriptochecktheshadingside-to-sideandend-to-endbycheckingitatleastagainstthemiddleoftherollandonceattheendoftheroll.Inspectforvisualdefectsataspeedslowenoughtofindthedefects.CheckthattherollcontainsthemetersasstatedbytheFabricSupplier.Checkforbowing&skewinginthefabric.MajorfabricdefectsaretobeflaggedbytheFabricSupplier.However,ifanyfaultisnotflaggedalreadythenitmustbemarkedwithastickerormaskingtapeduringinspectionforitstrace-abilityandcorrectiveactionatcuttingstage?9?RecordthefaultsofthefabricontheFabricQualityReport?ROLLTOROLLSHADECHECKINGSYSTEM:TextileLinksandControlssuggeststouseaformatforthecheckingofallfabricshadevariationsfromrolltoroll.Inthisformatwaterfallsofdifferentshades'categoriesofdifferentrollsismaintainedandparedtoeachothertochecktheextentoftheshadingvariation.Ifanyshaderequiresspecialattention/treatmentinthecutting,itismentionedintheremarkscolumn.IfanyfabricisoutoftoleraneewithrespecttotheMasterSampleortheshadevariationextentamongtherollsisoutoftoleranee,thenthefabricisreject.TherejectedfabricissentbacktoFabricSupplierforreprocessing/replacement.TOOLS.FOR.FABRIC.CHECKING:Thepersonwhoisresponsibleforfabricinspectionmusthavethefollowingfacilities/equipmentsingoodworkingcondition?Inspectionframewithcounter?D-65lightsource(sunlight)/TL-84lightsourceattheinspectionframeaspertherequirementofthecustomer.Measuringtape&pairofscissors?Stickersormaskingtapetoidentifythefaults.Pickglass?DigitalCamerafortakingrefereneesnaps?Masterfabricsampleorcustomer'srefereneesampl?lextileLinksandControlsfabricinspectionfonn.ELIGIBILITY.CRITERA.FOR.THE.QUALITY.INSPECTOR:■1?ThepersonmustbeatleastGraduateHeorshemusthaveaminimumoftwoyearexperieneeinthetextileindustry.Heorshemustbewellversedwiththe4-pointfabricinspectionsystem.Heorshemustbeactiveandphysicallyfit.Heorshemustnotbecolorblind.End
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