广东早茶民俗文化现象研究

广东早茶民俗文化现象研究 摘 要: “民以食为天”，这几乎是一条永恒不变的真理，而饮食文化则必然是人们永恒的话 题。在世界饮食圈内，中国的饮食文化是一颗古老而又璀璨的明星。作为一个中国人，我们 为祖国悠久的饮食文化而自豪的同时，也有必要去了解本土的饮食文化。“饮早茶”作为广东 民俗的一大特色，源远流长，背后蕴含着深厚的文化意义。至今仍被人们享用，在一定程度 上反映了广东的地域特色和广东人的地域心理。时至今天，对于广东人来说，饮早茶已不仅 仅是一种“娱乐活动”，还是以美食为契机进行的一种温暖的交流。而在一些老广东的心目中， 它更是一种不容轻易改换的生活方式。正因为如此，广东人把饮早茶，又称“叹早茶”，“叹” 是广州的俗语，为享受之意。饮早茶这一民俗文化的地位在广东人心中举足轻重。 关键词:广东;早茶;文化;民俗;文化现象 On the morning tea in Guangdong Folk Culture Phenomenon Abstract:It seems to be an eternal topic to talk about food culture .There is an old Chinese saying "Food is one of the ecstasies of life”,which exactly expresses people all over the world are enthusiastic about food. Chinese food culture plays an important and charming role in the world dietary ring.As a Chinese, we take pride in the motherland food culture and at the same time it is necessary to understand local food culture. “Drinking tea" is an outstanding characteristic in the Guangdong folk culture.It has been a long history and contains deep cultural meaning. To a certain extent, this culture reflects the local characteristics and customs of cantonese.Today, for Guangdong people, drinking tea is not only as a kind of "entertainment", but also an opportunity for a warm communication. And in the minds of some old cantonese, it is a kind of not easy to change the way of life.Therefore,Cantonese to drink tea, also called "sigh a morning tea", "sigh" is a proverb in Guangzhou, for the enjoyment . The tradition of drinking morning tea plays a dominant position of daily life for many cantonese. Key words: Guangdong; tea; culture; folk; cultural phenomenon 目 录 一、广东早茶概述. 5 (一)广东早茶的起源与发展. 5 (二)茶楼的重要性. 6 (三)饮早茶的流程. 7 (四)早茶的特点. 7 accident occurred, the direct punishment 0.5-10,000 yuan, responsible for the direct responsibility for the accident and the responsibility of leadership, such as concerning administrative sanctions should be dealt with by the personnel Department of the company. (3) personal injury accident occurs, the direct punishment 500-1000, who is directly responsible for the accident responsibility, give notice of criticism and 50-100 economic sanctions against them. (4) to conceal the accident, reported without undue delay or false, to inform the administrative leadership of the criticism, resulting in serious consequences, the pursuit of leadership, along with 500-1000 punishment. (5) significant near miss should be attempted as the case of responsible for the accident and construction team injuries accident penalty provisions, mutatis mutandis. Eight, should perform in the construction standards and specifications, serial number a 1 GB3323-2005 steel fusion welded butt joints, welding engineering-Ray lighting and quality rating of 2 GB11345-89 steel welds manual methods of ultrasonic inspection and testing results for grade 3 GB50236-2002 industrial pipe welding engineering code for construction and acceptance of field equipment 4 HGJ222-92 technical specification for welding of aluminium and its alloys 5 low temperature steel welding procedure 6 SH3525-2004 petrochemical JB/ T4708-2000 of welding procedure qualification for steel pressure vessels 7 JB/4709-2000 8 JB4730-2005 pressure vessel welding procedures of steel pressure vessel NDT 9 JB/T4744-2000 steel pressure vessel products mechanical properties test of welded plate II, mechanical equipment installation engineering 1 GB150-98 2 GB50128-2005 vertical cylindrical steel pressure vessel steel welded tank code for construction and acceptance 1.一盅两件. 7 2.饮茶礼俗. 8 (五)早茶茶客. 9 (六)早茶美点. 9 二、广东饮早茶文化的意义. 10 三、广东早茶的发展现况与未来展望. 12 四、小结. 13 致谢. 14 参考文献. 15 广东早茶是一种独特的习俗，是广东人生活不可缺少的一部分。早上见面，往往以“饮咗茶未啊?一起吖，行咯。”(意思是:“你喝茶了吗?没有的话，一起去吧，走!”)饮早茶，广东人又爱称之为“叹”早茶，“叹”是广东人发明的，意为享受的意思。广东人所讲的叹早茶，其实指的是到茶楼饮茶，不单单是饮茶，更重要的是吃茶点，这是广东人的生活习惯，是广东饮食文化中极其重要的一部分，也是广东本土文化涵养出的特色产物。 你想想，悠悠然地带份报纸到茶楼饮茶，和朋友们聊聊天儿，再吃一两件精致美味的点心，这绝对是一种美妙的生活享受。甚至民间还流传着"清晨一壶茶，不用找医家"这样的一句谚语。 一、广东早茶概述 从简陋的“二厘馆”到较高档次的茶居，最后到大规模的茶楼。不知道什么时候，广东人到茶楼饮早茶这一生活习惯早已蔚然成风。而直到今天，随着广东经济的迅速发展，早茶中的茶水已经成为配角，而茶点则愈发精致多样，吸引人们的眼球。奇怪的是广东早茶不但没有慢慢消失，反而愈发成为广东人休闲生活中一道美丽的风景线。 (一)广东早茶的起源与发展 广东饮早茶是从什么时候开始，到目前为止，还没有明确的结论。只是在形式上，与现今广东人饮早茶的茶楼相接近的是“茶馆”。在清代咸丰同治年间，它是一个被称 “二厘馆”的地方，这种馆子只提供木桌板凳、一些茶水和简单的糕点，门口挂着一个牌子，上面写着“茶话”二字，客人可以在那里休息、聊天、吃东西，顾客群体多是劳苦大众。据说，当时广东的 “二厘馆”遍布大街小巷，还有一首民谣这样唱:“去二厘馆饮餐茶，茶银二厘不多花。糕饼样样都抵食，最能顶肚冇花假。”再后来，清末出现的茶居则是较高档次的“茶馆”，外形类似于西关大屋;之后还有了三层楼高的茶居，始称“茶楼”，于是有了闲句:“有钱楼上楼，无钱地下踎”(粤语，“踎”即蹲)，有时，人们还拿着心爱的小鸟一起到茶楼，跟别人比一比自己的鸟如何的好，耍一耍阔少爷脾气，饮茶只是助兴而已。饮茶之风开始风靡广东各阶层。accident occurred, the direct punishment 0.5-10,000 yuan, responsible for the direct responsibility for the accident and the responsibility of leadership, such as concerning administrative sanctions should be dealt with by the personnel Department of the company. (3) personal injury accident occurs, the direct punishment 500-1000, who is directly responsible for the accident responsibility, give notice of criticism and 50-100 economic sanctions against them. (4) to conceal the accident, reported without undue delay or false, to inform the administrative leadership of the criticism, resulting in serious consequences, the pursuit of leadership, along with 500-1000 punishment. (5) significant near miss should be attempted as the case of responsible for the accident and construction team injuries accident penalty provisions, mutatis mutandis. Eight, should perform in the construction standards and specifications, serial number a 1 GB3323-2005 steel fusion welded butt joints, welding engineering-Ray lighting and quality rating of 2 GB11345-89 steel welds manual methods of ultrasonic inspection and testing results for grade 3 GB50236-2002 industrial pipe welding engineering code for construction and acceptance of field equipment 4 HGJ222-92 technical specification for welding of aluminium and its alloys 5 low temperature steel welding procedure 6 SH3525-2004 petrochemical JB/ T4708-2000 of welding procedure qualification for steel pressure vessels 7 JB/4709-2000 8 JB4730-2005 pressure vessel welding procedures of steel pressure vessel NDT 9 JB/T4744-2000 steel pressure vessel products mechanical properties test of welded plate II, mechanical equipment installation engineering 1 GB150-98 2 GB50128-2005 vertical cylindrical steel pressure vessel steel welded tank code for construction and acceptance 发展到后来，茶楼会变得越来越专业化，门面装修讲究，内里布置典雅，内容也日益丰富起来，最终也促成了广东人“饮早茶”的习俗:“米珠薪桂了无惊，装饰奢华饮食精。绝似生平歌舞日，茶楼处处管弦声”。 (二)茶楼的重要性 茶楼也是人们谋生的重要场所。各种各样的人在在茶楼里谈论着股票、楼市，谈论着日本的电器、美国的汽车。在这里，人们交流各种经济，商品信息。有没有"泡"茶楼的本事，一定程度上决定了你发财机会的多少。在商业世界里，没有进茶楼，是不会融入到广东的商界的。休闲，舒适的茶楼，已经成为一个商业谈判的地点，这使得茶楼不再仅仅是人们聊天，悠闲地打发时间的安静地方。这样的一个发展让茶楼的营业位置变得非常重要，茶楼的地址在很大程度上决定了这间茶楼一半的成败。第一代茶楼王——谭新义认为一家茶楼的位置必须满足四个条件:第一，人口密集的商业区，二是接近车站，码头的往来要道，三是接近路口、街口或丁字路的交叉汇合点;四是要有一个大的店铺面积。而茶楼另外一个很大的特点就是楼高。 从今天的莲香楼，陶陶居等建筑可以看出，茶楼的第一层都是较高的，有高达七米，人从茶楼门前的骑楼下经过，仰望的时候，它就会给人宽敞宏大的感觉，同时也是方便悬挂招牌宣传;第二层和第三层是客座，考虑到很多人吸烟多，声音嘈杂，楼层一般都高达5米，广开窗户，地方宽敞，空气清新，座位舒适。而茶楼的经营方式深入民心，水滚茶靓，点心精美。而点心就装在一辆小推车里面，由服务员推着小车在大厅里穿梭叫卖: “一盅(茶)两件(点心)”，这也成为以后广东人饮早茶约定成俗的代名词。 (三)饮早茶的流程 很多人认为，饮茶是一件非常复杂的事情，其实不然。凌晨5:00至中午11:00是广东早茶时间，而大部分的茶楼，酒店现在都有早茶服务，如广东餐饮名店莲香楼，陶陶居等。当我们走进餐厅时，餐厅服务员先会给你一张茶位卡，先问你有多少人，并记录在卡上，这叫做开茶位，一人算一个茶位，每个茶位费最少要两元到十几元不等;选定桌子就可以坐下，点上一盅茶，茶叶是可选的，有铁观音，普洱茶，菊花茶，乌龙茶……，然后顾客就可以自行叫东西吃了，点心是不用自己去拿的，茶楼有专门的人员推着一部小车四处走动， 小车里面放满了各色糕点和小吃，当小车推经你面前时，你可以叫停它，然后挑选自己想吃的点心，一选好以后，服务员就会在你的点心卡上相应的价钱栏盖上印章，这是意味着你拿了多少件多少钱的点心。在正常情况下，这些糕点、小吃都会被分成六七个等级:小点、中点、大点、顶点、特点、超点。当然，价钱也是一级一级上升的。但是现在，许多茶楼都已经没有茶盅和点心推车了，茶盅变成了一壶壶的茶，点心推车变成在点心卡上的点心种类打钩，再拿给服务员下单。 (四)早茶的特点 1.一盅两件 “一盅两件，人生一乐”，这是广东人对早茶的描述。所谓一盅两件，是指在饮早茶的时候，人们常以一盅茶,配两道点心作为早茶基准。“一盅”，就是一壶茶配一个茶盅，以前壶里多放些不怎么好的茶叶，茶味苦涩;“两件”，就是选两件小点心，如虾饺、排骨、凤爪、accident occurred, the direct punishment 0.5-10,000 yuan, responsible for the direct responsibility for the accident and the responsibility of leadership, such as concerning administrative sanctions should be dealt with by the personnel Department of the company. (3) personal injury accident occurs, the direct punishment 500-1000, who is directly responsible for the accident responsibility, give notice of criticism and 50-100 economic sanctions against them. (4) to conceal the accident, reported without undue delay or false, to inform the administrative leadership of the criticism, resulting in serious consequences, the pursuit of leadership, along with 500-1000 punishment. (5) significant near miss should be attempted as the case of responsible for the accident and construction team injuries accident penalty provisions, mutatis mutandis. Eight, should perform in the construction standards and specifications, serial number a 1 GB3323-2005 steel fusion welded butt joints, welding engineering-Ray lighting and quality rating of 2 GB11345-89 steel welds manual methods of ultrasonic inspection and testing results for grade 3 GB50236-2002 industrial pipe welding engineering code for construction and acceptance of field equipment 4 HGJ222-92 technical specification for welding of aluminium and its alloys 5 low temperature steel welding procedure 6 SH3525-2004 petrochemical JB/ T4708-2000 of welding procedure qualification for steel pressure vessels 7 JB/4709-2000 8 JB4730-2005 pressure vessel welding procedures of steel pressure vessel NDT 9 JB/T4744-2000 steel pressure vessel products mechanical properties test of welded plate II, mechanical equipment installation engineering 1 GB150-98 2 GB50128-2005 vertical cylindrical steel pressure vessel steel welded tank code for construction and acceptance 萝卜糕、烧卖等等。后来，为了满足客人的高 要求 对教师党员的评价套管和固井爆破片与爆破装置仓库管理基本要求三甲医院都需要复审吗 ，茶楼开始选用靓茶叶，并用山泉水泡茶，“两件”的质量也精细起来，其中，“两件”中是以传统否认虾饺、烧麦最为受欢迎。“一盅两件”是岭南文化区别于其他地域文化的显著特征之一。 2.饮茶礼俗 广东饮早茶有许多不成文的规矩，经过一百多年的发展和沉淀，广东早茶已经形成了有别于其他区域的民俗方式。这些约定俗成的做法，令广东早茶增添了许多细节上的精彩。这些规矩包括:问位点茶、揭盖续水、行叩茶礼、睇(看)数埋单、点心单盖印等。其中最有特色的就要算行叩茶礼。叩茶礼就是对那些为自己斟茶的人，以中指和食指轻叩桌面，表示谢意。这种叩手茶礼还一直沿用至今，关于它的起源，有这样一个典故:“一盅两件上茶楼，茶礼笃台叩指头，传说乾隆周日清，臣谢君恩当叩首。”说的是清朝乾隆皇帝微服私访江南，和周日清来到茶楼饮茶，他对伙计冲茶的动作感到好奇，并学着伙计为周日清冲茶水，，周日清受宠若惊，想行大礼叩谢，又担心暴露身份会引来不必要的危险，于是急中生智，用双指弯曲叩在桌子上，代替屈膝之礼。此后，这种叩手茶礼便在茶居流行开来，成为了一种茶俗。 此外，揭盖续水就是在饮早茶的时候，如果你需要续水，只要把茶壶的盖子打开并放在壶口边上，服务员就会过来帮你加水。这个礼俗相传是过去有一个商人到茶楼饮茶，叫服务员给他加水，谁知服务员刚打开水壶盖子，他就“哦嗬”大叫一声，无赖地说道，水壶里面一只价值千金的画眉鸟给服务员放走了，要求茶楼赔偿他的损失。当时的老板感到十分无奈，因此，规定以后茶客想要加水，就必须自己打开盖子，以防类似的欺诈事情再次发生。如今，这个礼俗已经成为了茶客要加水的示意信号，不用每次都特意叫服务员。 在倒茶的时候，你还要学会一个秘诀:“胆大心细”， “胆大”就是倒茶的时候要一下子就倒下去，“心细”就是收茶水的时候，茶水水柱要够细，收得快，不会滴下一滴茶水。 (五)早茶茶客 如果广东茶楼的茶客按饮茶目的分类，可以分为四种类型:一类是为了消遣时间:这一类大多是广东本地的老年人，他们深受本土的岭南文化中的早茶文化熏陶。方便，价格实惠，早点正宗的茶楼是他们消费的最佳选择;第二类则是为了商务往来:商务人士会利用饮早茶的休闲舒适氛围来谈生意。他们会选择一个有着安静舒适的环境，良好的服务态度，美味多样的点心，价格较高以便凸显档次的场所;第三类是家庭聚会:广东人一到周末就会一家大小出去喝早茶，以便增进家庭感情和减轻压力，一个环境舒适，早点美味，方便小孩活动的茶楼会是他们的选择;第四类是为了交流沟通:广东人热情好客，喜欢结交朋友，这类人会选择环境舒适安静，早点，服务和环境都能凸显档次的场所。 而按照茶客的光顾密度则可以分为两类:一类是熟客，每天早上的一个固定时间，他们就会到茶楼饮早茶，这一类人多以离退休老人为主，而且真的有老主顾一光顾就是几十年;另一类是饮“礼拜茶”，就是每逢星期六、星期天去饮茶，不限“一盅两件”，而是想品尝多款点心，轻松“叹茶”，享受生活，现在大多数人都是这一类型的。 accident occurred, the direct punishment 0.5-10,000 yuan, responsible for the direct responsibility for the accident and the responsibility of leadership, such as concerning administrative sanctions should be dealt with by the personnel Department of the company. (3) personal injury accident occurs, the direct punishment 500-1000, who is directly responsible for the accident responsibility, give notice of criticism and 50-100 economic sanctions against them. (4) to conceal the accident, reported without undue delay or false, to inform the administrative leadership of the criticism, resulting in serious consequences, the pursuit of leadership, along with 500-1000 punishment. (5) significant near miss should be attempted as the case of responsible for the accident and construction team injuries accident penalty provisions, mutatis mutandis. Eight, should perform in the construction standards and specifications, serial number a 1 GB3323-2005 steel fusion welded butt joints, welding engineering-Ray lighting and quality rating of 2 GB11345-89 steel welds manual methods of ultrasonic inspection and testing results for grade 3 GB50236-2002 industrial pipe welding engineering code for construction and acceptance of field equipment 4 HGJ222-92 technical specification for welding of aluminium and its alloys 5 low temperature steel welding procedure 6 SH3525-2004 petrochemical JB/ T4708-2000 of welding procedure qualification for steel pressure vessels 7 JB/4709-2000 8 JB4730-2005 pressure vessel welding procedures of steel pressure vessel NDT 9 JB/T4744-2000 steel pressure vessel products mechanical properties test of welded plate II, mechanical equipment installation engineering 1 GB150-98 2 GB50128-2005 vertical cylindrical steel pressure vessel steel welded tank code for construction and acceptance (六)早茶美点 中国人喝茶大多就只是喝茶，没有佐食，而广东人却不是这样，总是饮茶配上点心。广东茶楼的点心精美多样，品种多达百余种。大体可分为五大类:第一类是荤蒸，如凤爪、豉汁蒸排骨、糯米鸡等。其次是甜点，如蛋挞、椰挞、水晶饼等。第三类是蒸笼类，如虾饺、干蒸、烧卖、叉烧包、奶黄包、莲蓉包等。虾饺要做得地道正宗，要用马蹄粉或藕粉做皮，新鲜的虾仁、猪肉、竹笋和在一起做馅，这样，做出来的虾饺才能晶莹透明，吃起来才会爽滑清鲜，美味诱人。还有一样广东特色美点:肠粉，按照其肉馅的不同可分为:牛肉肠粉、虾仁肠粉、叉烧肠粉等。肠粉的皮胜似白雪，有点像北方的凉粉，牛肉、虾仁、叉烧包裹在皮粉皮里面。第四是粥，如烧骨粥、皮蛋瘦肉粥、及第粥等。第五是煎炸小吃，有煎饺、煎马蹄糕、炸春卷等。 事实上，广东早茶的点心是从最初的大包、简单的糕点开始的，发展到现在已经是种类繁多，让人目不暇给。甚至还出现中西合璧的西点，如蛋挞，椰挞。出现这样新颖的食物原因有很多，首先是广东人十分重视传统，对于祖辈们发明流传下来的饮食文化保存得很好，以至于传统点心随着时间的推移非但没有减少乃至消失，反而被后人发扬光大，增色不少。其次是岭南文化的包容性和开放性。自古以来，广东作为中国重要的对外贸易经济口岸之一，不断经受外来文化的影响，因此，广东的饮食也体现出了这种包容性和开放性。 accident occurred, the direct punishment 0.5-10,000 yuan, responsible for the direct responsibility for the accident and the responsibility of leadership, such as concerning administrative sanctions should be dealt with by the personnel Department of the company. (3) personal injury accident occurs, the direct punishment 500-1000, who is directly responsible for the accident responsibility, give notice of criticism and 50-100 economic sanctions against them. (4) to conceal the accident, reported without undue delay or false, to inform the administrative leadership of the criticism, resulting in serious consequences, the pursuit of leadership, along with 500-1000 punishment. (5) significant near miss should be attempted as the case of responsible for the accident and construction team injuries accident penalty provisions, mutatis mutandis. Eight, should perform in the construction standards and specifications, serial number a 1 GB3323-2005 steel fusion welded butt joints, welding engineering-Ray lighting and quality rating of 2 GB11345-89 steel welds manual methods of ultrasonic inspection and testing results for grade 3 GB50236-2002 industrial pipe welding engineering code for construction and acceptance of field equipment 4 HGJ222-92 technical specification for welding of aluminium and its alloys 5 low temperature steel welding procedure 6 SH3525-2004 petrochemical JB/ T4708-2000 of welding procedure qualification for steel pressure vessels 7 JB/4709-2000 8 JB4730-2005 pressure vessel welding procedures of steel pressure vessel NDT 9 JB/T4744-2000 steel pressure vessel products mechanical properties test of welded plate II, mechanical equipment installation engineering 1 GB150-98 2 GB50128-2005 vertical cylindrical steel pressure vessel steel welded tank code for construction and acceptance