AATCC 61-2009 纺织品色牢度试验 耐皂洗色牢度

86 TM 61-2009 AATCC Technical Manual/2010 Developed in 1950 by AATCC Committee RA60; revised 1952, 1954, 1957, 1960, 1961, 1970, 1972, 1986 (title change), 1989, 1993, 1994, 1996, 2003, 2006 (title change), 2007, 2009; reaffirmed 1956, 1962, 1965, 1968, 1969, 1975, 1980, 1985; editorially revised 1973, 1974, 1975, 1976, 1981, 1983, 1984, 1991, 1995, 1998, 2002, 2004, 2008; editorially revised and reaffirmed 2001. Partly equivalent to ISO 105-C06. 1. Purpose and Scope 1.1 These accelerated laundering tests are to evaluate the colorfastness to laun- dering of textiles which are expected to withstand frequent laundering. The fabric color loss and surface changes resulting from detergent solution and abrasive ac- tion of five typical hand or home launder- ings, with or without chlorine, are roughly approximated by one 45 min test (see 9.2-9.6). However, the staining ef- fect produced by five typical hand or home launderings cannot always be pre- dicted by the 45 min test. Staining is a function of the ratio of colored to undyed fabrics, fiber content of fabrics in the wash load and other end-use conditions which are not always predictable. 1.2 When this test method was origi- nally developed, various options of this method were intended to evaluate the color change and staining by five home or commercial launderings, on an accel- erated basis. Throughout the years, com- mercial laundering procedures have changed and commercial cleaning today involves many different types of pro- cesses, dependent on the type of product being cleaned that cannot be duplicated by one accelerated laboratory procedure. In 2005, all references to commercial laundering were removed as it is not known if these procedures accurately rep- licate typical commercial laundering pro- cesses used today. 2. Principle 2.1 Specimens are tested under appro- priate conditions of temperature, deter- gent solution, bleaching and abrasive ac- tion such that the color change is similar to that occurring in five hand or home launderings. The color change is obtained in a conveniently short time. The abra- sive action is a result of the frictional ef- fects of fabric against canister, the low li- quor ratio and the impact of the steel balls on the fabric. 3. Terminology 3.1 colorfastness, n.—the resistance of a material to change in any of its color characteristics, to transfer of its color- ant(s) to adjacent materials or both, as a result of the exposure of the material to any environment that might be encoun- tered during the processing, testing, stor- age or use of the material. 3.2 laundering, n.—of textile mate- rials, a process intended to remove soils and/or stains by treatment (washing) with an aqueous detergent solution and nor- mally including subsequent rinsing, ex- tracting and drying. 4. Safety Precautions NOTE: These safety precautions are for information purposes only. The pre- cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- dures and are not intended to be all inclu- sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use safe and proper techniques in handling materials in the test method. Manufactur- ers MUST be consulted for specific de- tails such as material safety data sheets and other manufacturer’s recommenda- tions. All OSHA standards and rules must also be consulted and followed. 4.1 Good laboratory practices should be followed. Wear safety glasses in all laboratory areas. 4.2 All chemicals should be handled with care. 4.3 The 1993 AATCC Standard Refer- ence Detergent WOB may cause irrita- tion. Care should be taken to prevent ex- posure to skin and eyes. 4.4 An eyewash/safety shower should be located nearby for emergency use. 4.5 Manufacturer’s safety recommen- dations should be followed when operat- ing laboratory testing equipment. 5. Apparatus, Reagents and Materials (see 12.1) 5.1 Accelerated laundering machine. 5.1.1 A laundering machine for rotat- ing closed canisters in a thermostatically controlled water bath at 40 ± 2 rpm. 5.1.2 Stainless steel lever lock canis- ters Type 1 500 mL (1 pt), 75 × 125 mm (3.0 × 5.0 in.) for Test No. 1A. 5.1.3 Stainless steel lever lock canisters Type 2 1200 mL, 90 × 200 mm (3.5 × 8.0 in.) for Tests No. 1B, 2A, 3A, 4A and 5A. 5.1.4 Adapter plates for holding canisters (see 5.1.3) on laundering machine shaft. 5.1.5 Stainless steel balls, 6 mm (0.25 in.) in diameter. 5.1.6 White Synthetic (SBR) Rubber Balls 9-10 mm (3/8 in.) dia. 70 Durome- ter hardness for Test 1B (see 12.1) 5.1.7 Teflon fluorocarbon gaskets (see 7.4.2 and 12.2). 5.1.8 Preheater/storage module (see 7.4, 12.1 and 12.3). 5.2 Scales for rating test results. 5.2.1 AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale (see 12.4). 5.2.2 Gray Scale for Color Change (see 12.4). 5.2.3 Gray Scale for Staining (see 12.4). 5.3 Reagents and materials. 5.3.1 Multifiber test fabrics (8 mm [0.33 in.] filling bands) containing ace- tate, cotton, nylon, silk, viscose rayon and wool. Multifiber test fabrics (8 mm [0.33 in.] filling bands) and (15 mm [0.6 in.] filling bands) containing acetate, cot- ton, nylon, polyester, acrylic and wool (see 12.5). 5.3.2 Bleached cotton test fabric, 32 × 32 ends × picks/cm (80 × 80 ends × picks/in.) construction, 100 ± 3 g/m2 (3.0 ± 0.1 oz/yd2), desized without fluorescent whitening agent (see 12.5). 5.3.3 1993 AATCC Standard Refer- ence Detergent WOB (without fluores- cent whitening agent and without phos- phate) or 2003 AATCC Standard Reference Liquid Detergent WOB (see 10.5 and 12.7). 5.3.4 1993 AATCC Standard Refer- ence Detergent (with fluorescent whiten- ing agent) (see 10.5 and 12.6). 5.3.5 Water, distilled or deionized (see 12.8). 5.3.6 Sodium hypochlorite (NaOCl) bleach (see 12.9). 5.3.7 Sulfuric acid (H2SO4), 10% (see 12.9.1). 5.3.8 Potassium iodide (KI), 10% (see 12.9.1). 5.3.9 Sodium thiosulfate (Na2S2O3), 0.1N (see 12.9.1). 5.3.10 Crockmeter test cloth cut in 50 mm (2 in.) squares (see 12.10). 5.3.11 White cards (specimen mounts) with Y tristimulus value at least 85%. 6. Test Specimens 6.1 The sizes of the specimens required for the various tests are as follows: 50 × 100 mm (2.0 × 4.0 in.) for Test No. 1A, 50 × 150 mm (2.0 × 6.0 in.) for Tests No. 1B, 2A, 3A, 4A and 5A. 6.2 Test only one specimen in each canister. AATCC Test Method 61-2009 Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated AATCC Technical Manual/2010 TM 61-2009 87 6.2.1 Test one specimen per laboratory sample. Replication may be advisable for improved precision. 6.3 To determine staining in Tests No. 1A and 2A, use multifiber test fabric. To determine staining in Test No. 3A, use ei- ther multifiber test fabric or bleached cot- ton test fabric. With respect to Test No. 3A, the use of multifiber test fabric is optional but the staining of acetate, nylon, polyester and acrylic is disregarded unless one of these fibers is present in the fabric being tested or known to be in the final garment. For Test 3A, multifiber test fabric with heat-sealed edges is recommended. Stain- ing is not determined in Tests No. 4A and 5A (see 12.11 and 12.12). 6.4 Specimen preparation. 6.4.1 Preparation with multifiber test fabric with individual component bands 8 mm (0.33 in.) wide or with bleached cotton test fabric. Prepare pieces with a 50 mm (2.0 in.) square of multifiber test fabric cloth or bleached cotton test fabric (as required) sewn, stapled or suitably attached along one 50 mm (2.0 in.) edge of the test specimen and in contact with the face of the material. When multifiber test fabric is used, attach it so that each of the six fiber bands is along the 50 mm (2.0 in.) edge of the specimen with the wool on the right. The fiber bands in the multifiber test fabric will be parallel to the lengthwise direction of the test specimen. 6.4.2 Preparation with multifiber test fabric with individual component bands 15 mm (0.6 in.) wide. Prepare pieces with a 50 × 100 mm (2.0 × 4.0 in.) rectangle of multifiber test fabric sewn, stapled or suitably attached centered along one 100 mm (4.0 in.) or 150 mm (6.0 in.) edge of the test specimen and in contact with the face of the material. Attach it so that each of the six fiber bands will be parallel to the widthwise direction of the specimen. Attach and secure the wool band at the top of the specimen to avoid fiber loss. 6.4.3 It is recommended that knitted fabrics be sewn or stapled at the four edges to equivalent size pieces of bleached cotton test fabric to avoid rolled edges and to assist in obtaining a uniform test result over the entire surface. Attach the multifiber test fabric to the face of the knitted fabric. 6.4.4 For pile fabric specimens with a pile lay direction, attach the multifiber test fabric at the top of the specimen with the pile lay direction pointing away from the top of the specimen. 6.5 When the textile to be tested is yarn, specimens may be tested using Op- tion 1 or Option 2. 6.5.1 Option 1. Knit yarn on an appro- priate sample knitting machine. Prepare specimens and multifiber test fabrics ac- cording to 6.1-6.4.3. Keep one knitted specimen of each sample as an unwashed original. 6.5.2 Option 2. Prepare two 110 m (120 yd) skeins of each yarn. Fold the skein so that there is a uniform amount of yarn across a 50 mm (2 in.) width with a length appropriate for the procedure to be used. Keep one skein of each sample as an unwashed original. Sew or staple Crockmeter test cloth squares (see 12.10) or squares of bleached cotton test fabric having approximately the same weight folded over each end of the layered yarn specimen. Attach a multifiber test fabric according to 6.4.1 or 6.4.2. 7. Procedure 7.1 Table I summarizes the conditions of the tests. 7.2 Adjust the laundering machine to maintain the designated bath tempera- ture. Prepare the required volume of wash liquor. Preheat this solution to the prescribed temperature. 7.3 Run Test No. 1A in 75 × 125 mm (3.0 × 5.0 in.) lever lock stainless steel canisters. Run Tests No. 2A, 3A, 4A and 5A in 90 × 200 mm (3.5 × 8.0 in.) lever lock stainless steel canisters. 7.3.1 For Tests No. 1A, 1B, 2A and 3A, add to the canister the amount of de- tergent solution designated in Table I. 7.3.2 For Test No. 4A, prepare a 1500 ppm available chlorine solution. For 1 L, determine the amount of stock sodium hypochlorite bleach solution (see 12.9) to dilute as follows: 159.4/% NaOCl = g to add Weigh the correct amount of bleach into a volumetric flask and dilute to 1 L. To each canister, add 5 mL of 1500 ppm available chlorine solution and 45 mL of detergent solution making a total volume of 50 mL. 7.3.3 For Test No. 5A, determine the amount of stock sodium hypochlorite bleach solution (see 12.9) to dilute as follows: 4.54/% NaOCl = g to add Weigh the correct amount of bleach into a graduated cylinder and add detergent so- lution to make a total volume of 150 mL. Prepare this solution separately for each canister. 7.3.4 For all the tests, add the desig- nated number of stainless steel balls or white rubber balls to each canister. 7.4 The two options for preheating the canisters to the test temperature are by use of the laundering machine or the pre- heater/storage unit. If the canisters are to be preheated in the laundering machine, proceed to 7.4.2. 7.4.1 Place the canisters in the pre- heater module at the prescribed test tem- perature. They are to remain in the module for at least 2 min. Enter a well crumpled test specimen into each canister. 7.4.2 Clamp the covers on the canis- ters. A Teflon fluorocarbon gasket (see 5.1.6) may be inserted between the neo- prene gasket and the top of each canister to prevent contamination of the wash so- lution by the neoprene. Fasten the 75 × 125 mm (3.0 × 5.0 in.) lever lock canis- ters vertically and the 90 × 200 mm (3.5 × 8.0 in.) lever lock canisters horizontally in the adapters on the rotor of the laun- dering machine in such a manner that when the canisters rotate, the covers strike the water first. Place an equal num- ber of canisters on each side of the shaft. For canisters preheated in the module, proceed to 7.7. 7.5 Start the rotor and run it for at least 2 min to preheat the canisters. 7.6 Stop the rotor and with a row of canisters in an upright position, unclamp the cover of one canister, enter a well crumpled test specimen into the solution and replace the cover, but do not clamp it. Repeat this operation until all the canis- ters in the row have been loaded. Then clamp the covers in the same order in which the canisters were loaded (delay clamping the covers to allow equalization of pressure). Repeat this operation until all rows of canisters have been loaded. 7.7 Start the laundering machine and run it at 40 ± 2 rpm for 45 min. 7.8 The rinsing, extracting and drying procedures are the same for all the tests. Table I—Test Conditionsa Test No. Temp Total Liquor Volume (mL) Percent Powder Detergent of Total Volume Percent Liquid Detergent of Total Volume Percent Available Chlorine of Total Volume No. Steel Balls No. of Rubber Balls Time (Min)°C (± °2) °F (± °4) 1A 40 105 200 0.37 None 10 45 b1Bb 31 88 150 0.37 0.56 None 10 20 2A 49 120 150 0.15 None 50 45 3A 71 160 50 0.15 None 100 45 4A 71 160 50 0.15 0.015 100 45 5A 49 120 150 0.15 0.027 50 45 aRefer to Section 9 for objectives for each test method. bTest 1B is the first test that includes the use of the standard liquid detergent and the use of Rubber Balls instead of Stainless Steel Balls. 88 TM 61-2009 AATCC Technical Manual/2010 Stop the machine, remove the canisters and empty the contents into beakers, keeping each test specimen in a separate beaker. Rinse each test specimen three times, in beakers, in distilled or deionized water at 40 ± 3°C (105 ± 5°F) for 1 min periods with occasional stirring or hand squeezing. To remove excess water, cen- trifuge, blot or pass the test specimens through wringer rolls. Dry the specimens in an air circulating oven in which the temperature does not exceed 71°C (160°F), or tumble dry in a nylon mesh bag in an automatic tumble dryer at nor- mal cycle, which has an exhaust tempera- ture of 60-71°C (140-160°F), or air dry. 7.9 Allow specimens to condition at 65 ± 2% relative humidity and 21 ± 1°C (70 ± 2°F) for 1 h before evaluating. 7.10 Prepare tested fabric specimens and adjacent fabrics for evaluation by trimming off raveled yarns and lightly brushing off any loose fiber and yarn on the fabric surfaces. Brush pile fabric specimens in required direction to restore them as nearly as possible to the same pile angle as the untreated specimens. Specimens should be smoothed or flat- tened if they are wrinkled and messy due to washing and/or drying. Specimens may be mounted on cards to facilitate identification and handling in their evalu- ation. For consistency in backing mate- rial, use a white mounting card with Y tristimulus value of at least 85%. Mount- ing material must not be visible in the area to be viewed and must not interfere with rating as specified in 5.1 of both AATCC Evaluation Procedures 1 and 2 for the Gray Scale for Color Change and Gray Scale for Staining or instrumental assessment of color according to AATCC Evaluation Procedure 7, Instrumental As- sessment of the Change in Color of a Test Specimen (see 12.4). 7.10.1 Yarn skein specimens should be combed and brushed for improved align- ment of the yarns before comparison with the unwashed original. The original spec- imens may also need further combing and brushing for uniformity of appearance. 8. Evaluation 8.1 Evaluation of color change. 8.1.1 Evaluate the color change of the test specimens as directed in AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 using the Gray Scale for Color Change. For improved precision and accuracy the specimens should be rated by more than one rater. Grade 5—negligible or no change as shown in Gray Scale Step 5. Grade 4.5—change in color equivalent to Gray Scale Step 4-5. Grade 4—change in color equivalent to Gray Scale Step 4. Grade 3.5—a change in color equiva- lent to Gray Scale Step 3-4. Grade 3—change in color equivalent to Gray Scale Step 3. Grade 2.5—change in color equivalent to Gray Scale Step 2-3. Grade 2—change in color equivalent to Gray Scale Step 2. Grade 1.5—change in color equivalent to Gray Scale Step 1-2. Grade 1—change in color equivalent to Gray Scale Step 1. 8.1.2 The color change can be quanti- tatively determined by measuring the color difference between the unwashed sample and a test specimen using a suit- able colorimeter or spectrophotometer with the appropriate software (see AATCC Evaluation Procedure 7, Instru- mental Assessment of the Change in Color of a Test Specimen). 8.2 Evaluation of staining. 8.2.1 Evaluate staining (see 12.11) as directed in AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2 using the Gray Scale for Staining or as directed in AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8 using the Chromatic Transference Scale. The scale used should be indicated when reporting the test results. Grade 5—negligible or no color transfer. Grade 4.5—color transfer equivalent to Step 4-5 on the Gray Scale for Staining or Row 4.5 on the 9-step AATCC Chro- matic Transference Scale. Grade 4—color transfer equivalent to Step 4 on the Gray Scale for Staining or Row 4 on the 9-step AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale. Grade 3.5—color transfer equivalent to Step 3-4 on the Gray Scale for Staining or Row 3.5 on the 9-step AATCC Chro- matic Transference Scale. Grade 3—color transfer equivalent to Step 3 on the Gray Scale for Staining or Row 3 on the 9-step AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale. Grade 2.5—color transfer equivalent to Step 2-3 on the Gray Scale for Staining or Row 2.5 on the 9-step AATCC Chro- matic Transference Scale. Grade 2—color transfer equivalent to Step 2 on the Gray Scale for Staining or Row 2 on the 9-step AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale. Grade 1.5—color transfer equivalent to Step 1-2 on the Gray Scale for Staining or Row 1.5 on the 9-step AATCC Chro- matic Transference Scale. Grade 1—color transfer equivalent to Step 1 on the Gray Scale for Staining or Row 1 on the 9-step AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale. 8.2.2 The color transferred to the multi- fiber test fabric or bleached cotton test fabric square of 6.4.1 can be quantita- tively determined by measuring the color difference between a piece of the original material and the stained material. Multifi- ber test fabrics (15 mm [0.6 in.]) have fill- ing bands of sufficient width to be within the aperture diameter capability of many colorimeters and spectrophotometers (see AATCC Evaluation Procedure 6, Instru- mental Color Measurement and 12.15). 9. Interpretation of Results 9.1 Results from these tests are in- tended to approximate the color change effects (see 1.1) of five typical home launderings. These are accelerated tests, and in obtaining the required degree of acceleration some of the conditions, such as temperature, were purposely exagger- ated. The tests have remained largely the same over many years while laundry de- tergents, washers and dryers, laundry practices and fabrics have changed (see AATCC monograph “Standardization of Home Laundry Test Conditions,” else- where in this TECHNICAL MANUAL). Consequently, caution in interpreting test results is advisable. 9.2 Test No. 1A—This test is for evalu- ating the colorfastness of textiles that are expected to withstand repeated hand laundering at low temperature. Speci- mens subjected to this test should show color change similar to that produced by five typical careful hand launderings at a temperature of 40 ± 3°C (105 ± 5°F). 9.3 Test No. 1B—This test is for evalu- ating the colorfastness of textiles that are expected to withstand repeated hand laundering at cool temperatures. Speci- mens subjected to this test should show color change similar to that produced by five typical careful hand launderings at a temperature of 27 ± 3°C (80 ± 5°F). 9.4 Test No. 2A—This test is for eval- uating the colorfastness to washing of textiles that are expected