地球解放阵线教程

Setting Fires With Electrical Timers An Earth Liberation Front Guide May 2001 2 Do not shorten any of the recipes. They have been carefully worded to avoid mistakes and confusion. If you need to retype recipes, please carefully check your work. Typos and omissions could cause timers to fail and expose saboteurs to needless risks. Setting Fires with Electrical Timers, An ELF Guide May 2001 edition, PDF version Copyright � 2001 by F.C. (Fireant Collective) The PDF version is slightly different than the paper version. An introduction has been added to the PDF version. Step 2 of the Model Rocket Igniter recipe has been expanded. All other differences between the versions are cosmetic. Permission to copy is granted to all nonprofit groups working for animal liberation and their supporters. Permission to copy is also granted to bookstores that specialize in animal rights, environmental and anarchist literature. You may charge a fair price to cover copying expenses and labor. If you fit this criteria: Please copy and distribute this manual. All other corporations, companies, businesses, institutes, colleges and think tanks are forbidden from copying this publication in part or whole. All government agencies and employees of the government are expressly forbidden from copying this publication in part or whole. Violators will be subject to prosecution or retribution. You’ve been warned. 3 Table of Contents Terminology............................................................ Four Rules of Arson................................................ Where to Put Incendiary Devices............................ Fuel Requirements for Buildings............................ Putting an Incendiary Device Together................... The Bucket-Igniter Connection............................... Creating a Clean Room........................................... Tips for Constructing Electrical Timers.................. Bullet Connectors vs. Alligator Clips...................... How to Solder.......................................................... Read the Instructions Carefully............................... Recipes: � Old-Fashioned Kitchen Timer.......................... � SCR Digital Timer............................................ � Model Rocket Igniter........................................ � Light Bulb Igniter............................................. Electrical Timers in Cold Temperatures................. Keeping the Igniter Dry.......................................... Where to Get Started.............................................. 4 4 5 6 7 7 9 10 12 13 14 15 19 30 32 35 36 37 Introduction Electrical timers are superior to delays that use candles, incense or cigarettes. Electrical timers have significantly longer delay times. When electrical timers are carefully constructed, they are more reliable. Each one can be tested repeatedly until you are certain that it will work. Electrical timers are easily protected from wind and rain, whereas even a mild breeze can be a problem for candles and incense. This guide has recipes for two electrical timers, the Old-Fashioned Kitchen Timer and the SCR Digital Timer. Both recipes have been greatly expanded to give extremely clear and detailed instructions. Our goal has been to eliminate ambiguity from the directions and to provide as many helpful tips as possible. You don’t need prior experience with electronics. You need only practice some with a soldering iron. As long as you pay attention to details and do the proper testing, you’ll be able to construct highly reliable timers. The Old-Fashioned Kitchen Timer is relatively quick and easy to construct. The SCR Digital Timer takes much longer to build, especially the first few times, but it is worth the effort. At the target, it can be positioned and activated with unparalleled speed and safety. In addition, the SCR Digital Timer is extremely precise – down to the minute, and even down to the second, depending on the timepiece. With that level of precision, you can guarantee that multiple incendiary devices will ignite at the same time. Simultaneous ignition is especially important in situations where you expect firefighters to arrive quickly. If ignition is not simultaneous, the first fire may bring firefighters onto the scene before the other fires have a chance to do damage. There are two other timer recipes that have been passed around. Both have serious drawbacks and should no longer be used. One recipe uses the hour hand on a wind-up wristwatch to push two wires together. It is terribly imprecise and most wristwatches are unable to perform the job. The other recipe uses an alarm clock that plugs into an electrical outlet. (It must be an alarm clock with a battery backup.) This type of alarm clock shuts off its display when unplugged, creating complications for the saboteur. Another problem is its reliance on a REED relay, which is not a solid state component and not as resilient as an SCR. The SCR Digital Timer is more foolproof and easier to use. We hope you find many good uses for these timers. Enjoy. 4 Terminology ACCELERANT – A substance, usually a liquid, which releases tremendous heat when it burns. Accelerant acts like a shot of adrenaline: it dramatically increases the pace of destruction. Petroleum products such as gasoline, diesel and kerosene are very powerful accelerants. IGNITER – The intermediate component between a timer and the accelerant. The igniter creates a hot flame when triggered by a spark, a smoldering ember, an electric current or some other heat source coming from the timer. The igniter must burn long enough and hot enough to set the accelerant on fire. TIMER – Chemical, mechanical or electronic mechanism that causes a time delay before a fire erupts. Examples include fuses, candlewicks, cigarettes, incense, modified kitchen timers, and modified alarm clocks. INCENDIARY DEVICE – A system consisting of an igniter and a timer and a quantity of accelerant. PREMATURE IGNITION – The potentially dangerous situation when an incendiary bursts into flame before it is supposed to. (Usually followed by the words, “Oh shit!”) Four Rules of Arson 1) Most of the heat from a fire rises. Convection currents cause flames and heat to travel upwards. When choosing locations for accelerant, consider the path of rising heat as the accelerant burns. Get as much of that rising heat into the “target area” as possible. The target area is that part of the building or vehicle which is most vulnerable to fire. (For most buildings, the target area is the attic and its rafters, as described in the next section.) 2) The heat needs to be concentrated in one place. It is counterproductive to disperse the accelerant. Contain the accelerant by keeping it in a 5-gallon bucket or other container. Hollywood movies often show people splashing gasoline everywhere before setting a fire. This creates a nice special effect as flames leap up all over the place. However, the heat is dispersed which makes it less likely that solid wood will absorb enough heat (energy) to catch fire and stay on fire. 3) The heat needs to be sustained over a period of time. As an object is exposed to heat, more and more of that energy will be absorbed over time. The temperature of that object will eventually reach the point where combustion (fire) can occur. A momentary flash of intense heat, like a ball of fire, is not as likely to transfer sufficient heat to the object as would a steady flame. For example, you won’t be burned if you move your hand quickly through a candle flame. This is not true if you hold your hand still in the flame. Even very high temperatures can be rendered ineffectual if there isn’t enough time to transfer sufficient heat. This occurs with gasoline which burns hot and fast. Diesel is added to gasoline to slow down the burn rate. 4) Guarantee destruction of the target through careful planning and execution. Take no shortcuts. Do thorough reconnaissance to eliminate surprises. Make contingency plans for anything that could go wrong. Do extensive testing of timers and igniters. Use multiple incendiary devices with generous amounts of accelerant. Never be satisfied with possible destruction or probable destruction. The objective of every action should be assured destruction. The risks are too high for anything else. 5 Where to Put Incendiary Devices To successfully destroy a building, the saboteur must burn through the rafters that support the roof. Any walls that escape the fire will be of no value if the roof collapses. So don’t be concerned about how much damage is done at the ground level. The goal is always to move the fire up into the rafters. It is essential that the fire destroy enough of the ceiling joists to make the roof structurally unsound. Proper placement of incendiary devices will direct the fire across numerous ceiling joists. Always place incendiary devices against at least two different walls. This is necessary for cutting across ceiling joists. This also creates a draft that speeds up the fire by giving it more oxygen. Determine the exact location for each incendiary device before the night of the action. Take advantage of any feature of the building that will contain the heat of the burning accelerant and move that heat into the structure. Consider the path of rising flames and rising heat (convection currents). Also consider where heat will be radiated as a surface burns – will it radiate heat out into the atmosphere (bad) or towards a nearby surface that is also burnable (good). 1) A porch roof traps rising heat extremely well. The roof above a porch is not as high as the main roof. And the exposed wood underneath the porch roof will be dry. Place the incendiary device up against the wall of the building so that the fire will be immediately positioned to enter the main structure. The only disadvantage to placing an incendiary device on the porch is that it will be more noticeable if a security guard enters the building or is checking that all the doors are locked. 2) A recessed entranceway, especially if it’s recessed several feet, is the perfect situation. The heat is reflected and absorbed by the building on three sides. Rising heat is channeled directly into the structure, which on single story buildings is the attic area. The only disadvantage is the increased chance of discovery if a security guard comes by. 3) An overhanging roof (known as a “soffit” in the construction trade) captures the heat as it rises. The more the roof overhangs, the better. There may be a series of ventilation holes beneath an overhang, with tiny screens covering the holes. If you see ventilation holes, you are in luck and you should definitely place incendiary devices directly beneath them. Ventilation holes greatly accelerate the process of getting fire into the rafters. When there is an overhanging roof, utilize either an “inside corner” or a window to get even more heat into the structure. a) An “inside corner” is found on the exterior of a building where two wings of an L-shaped building come together. A T-shaped building will have two inside corners. The incendiary device is placed in the corner up against the walls. The heat will be reflected back and forth between the walls and channeled upwards, enhancing your fire. An inside corner works best when there is also an overhanging roof. If there is no overhang, a lot of heat will be lost to the atmosphere. b) A medium-sized window and an overhanging roof are a good combination. Place the incendiary device beneath the window. The heat from the flames will break the glass. Some of the heat will go through the broken window into the room and some of the heat will be absorbed by the overhang. If another incendiary device is placed at a second window (perhaps on the opposite side of the room), then a nice draft will give the fire plenty of oxygen. Without an overhanging roof, most of the heat from an incendiary device placed outside a window will be lost to the night sky. To summarize: any recessed area, nook, soffit, porch, or ornamental roof can be used to your advantage. All of these concentrate and/or capture the heat of the accelerant. A plain wall without an overhanging roof is the Figure YY: Cross section of a roof, showing flames entering through a soffit. 6 worst situation. In this case look for a shed, a neighboring building, a parked car or a dumpster that is close enough to reflect heat back towards your fire. Some dumpsters can even be moved around into a good position. The typical A-frame is known as a gable roof (see the first building depicted in Figure ZZ). Two sides of the building will have eaves where the roof overhang is close to the ground (a good location for incendiary devices). The remaining two sides, called the gable ends, have a roof overhang that becomes progressively further away from the ground towards the center of the wall (a bad location for incendiary devices). You want the fire to hit the bottom of the rafters, so it can climb up the entire length of the rafters and fully engulf the roof. For three of the roof types – the gable, the gambrel and the lantern – in Figure ZZ, you can identify the worst location for an incendiary device by where the artist has drawn the door. It is important to consider how visible the incendiary devices will be to security guards and passersby. Take advantage of shadows and shrubbery to hide them. If just one device is discovered prior to ignition, the whole operation will fail. Fuel Requirements for Buildings For a small single story building, the prescription is two incendiary devices each using 5 gallons of accelerant. If the building is larger than a summer cottage, then use additional incendiary devices with 5 gallons of accelerant for each device. Always target at least two walls. For guaranteed total incineration, space the devices at 20 or 30- foot intervals along these walls. In the case of a long sprawling building, it may be impractical to envelope the whole building in flames, but careful placement of incendiary devices could destroy enough of the structure to render it effectively worthless. Or the fire could be focused on the most expensive areas (e.g. computers, lab equipment). A two-story building requires more fuel at each ignition point to push your fire the extra ten feet up to the rafters. Use 8 to 10 gallons for each incendiary device. Also adjust the gasoline-diesel ratio to include more gasoline and less diesel which will project the flames higher. A three-story building is too high to project flames all the way up a plain wall into the roof. Instead, you must utilize a recessed door, a low roof above a porch, or a crawlspace to get the fire into the building. It is usually unnecessary and a waste of precious time to gather up flammable materials at the scene (e.g. fenceposts, branches, wooden furniture). It is much more valuable to bring more fuel if you are concerned about the success of your fire. Gasoline and diesel are perfectly suited to delivering large quantities of heat, not too fast and not too slow. If carrying a lot of fuel is unfeasible, the amount of accelerant per device can be reduced from 5 gallons to 3 gallons. But don’t use less than 3 gallons per device. And don’t use less than 9 or 10 gallons total for any building. In other words, the absolute minimum is 3 gallons of accelerant at three different locations or 5 gallons of accelerant at two locations. Remember the rule: always strive for guaranteed destruction. Figure ZZ: Roof Types 7 Putting an Incendiary Device Together Each incendiary device is composed of three parts: the timer, the igniter, and the accelerant. For safety, the three parts are kept separate from one another while being transported. At the specified time, electrical timers send an electric current to the igniter. The purpose of the igniter is to convert the electric current (or smoldering ember) into a flame and to feed that flame so that it is capable of catching the accelerant on fire. Without accelerant, timers and igniters could offer nothing more than a brief flame and a puff of smoke. Accelerant is what turns a tiny fire into an inferno. According to tradition, accelerant should be 50% gasoline and 50% diesel. There is no need to measure out the ratio precisely, just mix roughly half gasoline and half diesel. If you have trouble getting diesel, it’s o.k. for the accelerant to be entirely gasoline. It is not o.k. to use less than half gasoline for any reason, because gasoline is necessary for ignition. Diesel is reluctant to catch fire. Even a burning candle can be extinguished by pouring diesel on top of it. Gasoline ignites readily, then heats up the diesel and gets it burning. Use a plastic 5-gallon bucket to hold the accelerant. A 5-gallon bucket has a convenient handle and a tight- fitting lid. It is cheaper and looks less suspicious than a red gas can. The flat top of the 5-gallon bucket is an ideal shape for positioning the igniter to melt through the lid (as described in option 2 below). The wide diameter of the lid is ideal for leaving the lid off and immediately exposing the accelerant to a good amount of oxygen (as described in option 1 below). Buckets are discarded regularly by restaurants, but you’ll have to check that the lids fit properly. New buckets with matching lids can be purchased at hardware stores. Get buckets with handles. Some buckets are 3 or 4 gallons but are similar to 5-gallon buckets in all other respects. You will need to use an approved gas can to get the fuel at a gas station. Filling other types of containers at a gas station is forbidden by law and will draw unwanted attention. To minimize leakage, leave about 3 inches of air space whenever you fill gas cans or 5-gallon buckets. (Gas cans usually have a recommended fill line marked on them.) The Bucket – Igniter Connection Three options are given below for how to position the igniter next to the container(s) of accelerant. It is important to use the same option for all the incendiary devices at a particular target. By using the same option, you greatly increase the likelihood that the incendiary devices will reach their full force at the same time. Option 1: Position the igniter above a 5-gallon bucket with its lid removed, giving the igniter direct contact with gasoline vapors. Advantages: A very large flame is instantly produced, which is very important if firefighters are going to arrive quickly. Only one container of accelerant is required for each incendiary device. Disadvantages: Extra time at the target is needed to remove the lid. Safeguards must be taken to avoid premature ignition. Gloves may get slightly contaminated with accelerant. At the target, set the 5-gallon bucket at the desired location, then remove its lid. Some lids pop off simply by lifting on tabs. Other lids can be removed only by making cuts in the side of the lid at regular intervals. The cuts are made in the narrow grooves where the plastic is thin. If you are uncertain about what needs to be done, find a used lid behind a restaurant and examine how it was cut off. The knife needs to be very sharp, so use a razor blade knife with a new razor. Afterwards, dispose of the razor blade and wash the knife. The igniter must be suspended above the bucket. Here are two methods that are easy, cheap, lightweight and take up relatively little room for easier transport. The first method is to tape the igniter to two sticks that are slightly longer than the diameter of the bucket. The sticks must be fingerprint-free. Beware: older, drier sticks are brittle and susceptible to breaking. Position the sticks parallel to each other and tape the igniter between them. Another method of positioning the igniter above an open bucket is to use a second lid with a large, pre-cut hole. Make the hole as large as possible while still retaini