[工程科技]常用外贸服装专业术语中英文对照含图

[ 工程 路基工程安全技术交底工程项目施工成本控制工程量增项单年度零星工程技术标正投影法基本原理 科技]常用外贸服装专业术语中英文对照含图 A Appliqué: Surface pattern made by cutting out fabric or lace designs and attaching them to another fabric or lace by means of embroidery or stitching. Armhole: Section of a garment through which an arm passes or into which a sleeve is sewn. Armhole Drop: Distance from High Point Shoulder or Low Point Shoulder measured to imaginary line at base of armhole that is at a 90-degree angle from CF or CB. Armhole Point: The point on a pattern where armhole and side seam intersect. Armscye: See definition for Armhole. B Backstitch: See definition for Backtack. Backtack: Stitches used to secure the threads at the beginning and/or ending of a row of stitching. Bagged Lining: Lining that is stitched securely to shell at hems. Balance: Garment appears symmetrical on the body. Hanging equal distances from the body right to left, and front to back. Balanced Plaid/Stripe Refers to the symmetrical appearance of the plaid on the body. The Placement: stripe/plaid must start at the same point on both sides of the garment. Banana Stand: See definition for Half Moon Stand. Band Neckline, Circular: For definition see set-circular. Band Neckline, Flat: For definition see set-flat Barrel Button: See definition for Toggle Button. Bartack: A series of short stitches sewn close together and used to reinforce areas of strain or stress. Can be zigzag or straight stitching. Basting Stitch: Temporarily holds together two layers of fabric. Bellow: A method of adding fullness to an area of a garment, usually a pocket. Often stitched around edges to hold shape. Bellying: See Cockling Belt loop: Narrow strip of fabric or thread chain at the waistline to keep a belt in position. Besom Pocket: See definition for Welt Pocket. Bias Cut: Cutting diagonally across the grain of the fabric at a 45 degree angle to the selvedge, resulting in a garment that clings and follows body curves closely. Bind Off (Sweater): See definition for Cast Off. Binding: A narrow strip of fabric used to cover seams or raw edges to give a clean finished edge and is visible on both sides of the fabric. Can be single-turned, double-turned or combination. Blanket Stitch(502) Blended Yarns: Yarns composed of two or more different fibers mixed together and then spun to form one yarn. Blindstitch: For Definition see Hem and 103 Blistering: See definition for Bubbling. Block: See definition for Sloper. Blocking: The shaping of a sweater into its finished form. Steam and pressure are applied to make the blocked shape hold. Body Fabric: Outer layer of fabric in a garment. Bond Strength: The numerical measurement of force required to separate the interlining from the piece goods. The measurement of gram force is recorded in Newton (N = 102gf) or Ounce (oz = 28.35gf). Bonding: Process of joining 2 fabrics into one by backing with adhesive or foam. Boning: Firm flexible strip, like nylon, concealed in casing to hold shape or prevent stretching. Bootcut Silhouette: Bound Buttonhole: For definition see buttonhole Bound Neckline, Circular: For definition see set-circular. Bound Neckline, Flat: For definition see set-flat Bound Seam: Method of finishing a seam by binding seam allowance. Bow, Bowing: A fabric flaw in which the crosswise yarns arc across the width of the fabric. Box Pleat: Pleat formed by folding material alternately in opposite directions. Box Pleat Inverted Box Pleat Braided Elastic: See definition for Elastic Braided Bubbling: The separation at different points between the interlining and the piece goods. Buckle: A fastening device, in a variety of sizes and shapes, consisting of an open rim having a single or center bar, with or without a prong. Bust Dart: See definition for Dart. Busted Seam: See definition for Pressed Open Seam. Button: Decorative or functional component used to hold two sides of a garment together. Can be made out of many materials and can either have holes punched in the center for stitching or a shank on the back. Buttons are made to slip through a buttonhole or fabric loop. Button and Loop Cross-See definition for Button. Stitch Attached: Button Parallel Stitch See definition for Button. Attached: Buttonhole: Opening for a button to pass through and secure a garment opening. Can be bound, stitched/worked, or made from a loop of thread, cord or bias tubing. Button Sleeve Placket: See definition for Placket. Button Stabilizer: A plain flat button usually made of clear plastic placed inside a garment behind the top outside button. Can be used anywhere there are buttons for closure. C Cap Snap: See definition for Snap. Cargo Pocket: A stylized patch pocket, often with bellows, with flap closure at the top. Casing: Fold of fabric stitched down to form an opening through which elastic or a cord is drawn. Cast Off (Sweater): Methods of removing open stitches from the needles must be finished with a bind off (like rib neck trim) to prevent unraveling of the finished edge. Can also be decorative stitches within a panel. Cast On (Sweater): See definition of Sweater Start. Centered Over Seam Topstitch on each side of the seam, equal distance from the seam. Stitch: Can be produced by two single needles or 1 double needle. Chain Tack: See definition for Swing Tack. Chisel Pocket: See definition for Ruler Pocket. Circular Finish: See definition for Set Circular Circular Knit: See definition for Tubular Knit. Clean Finish: Indicates that raw edges of fabric are finished in a way that stops fabric from fraying and hides raw edges. Clicking: See definition for Die Cutting. Closure: Components that work together to hold 2 sides of a garment together. Cockling: Cockling and Bellying mean the same thing. If elastic has a wavy appearance along its length, this is called cockling or bellying. The primary cause is when the individual ends of spandex (rubber) relax or contract more than the majority in the same length of the elastic causing waviness along the top edge. Coin Pocket: Small decorative pocket usually found on bottom garments, usually located inside side pocket. Can be a patch pocket or on-seam pocket construction. Collar: No Band Collar With Band Collar Collar Stay: Narrow strip of plastic or metal inserted in point of collar from the underside or is sewn to interlining between layers of collar fabric added to garment to ensure a crisp unwrinkled look. Collarband: See definition for Collarstand Collarstand: Separate shaped piece of fabric that is the full length of garment neckline and is inserted between garment neckline and collar. Used to help shape and fit collar to body and also can be used to close neckline. Color Fast: A term used to determine whether a color „bleeds? during laundering. This is normally measured by a grading system 1 – 5. Concealed Zipper: Zipper is set along folded edges of seam line with zipper teeth not visible. Some specific construction methods are center lapped or kissing, side lapped, and invisible. Construction: Processes in order to construct a garment, consists of stitching and/or fusing garment pieces together. Continuous Sleeve Placket: See definition for Placket. Contoured Waistband: See definition for Waistband. Cording: See definition for Piping. Cordlock: A locking device that is typically spring activated and may have 1 or 2 holes. Used to adjust drawcords, etc. Core Thread: Thread formed by spinning a cotton, rayon, or polyester fiber around a continuous filament bundle of fibers giving the thread the advantages of a spun and Filament construction. Course: A crosswise or horizontal row of loops in knitted fabric. Covered Button: See definition for Button. Crack-stitched: See definition for Stitch-in-the-Ditch. Crescent Stand: See definition for Half Moon Stand. Crocking: The transfer of dye stuff from one fabric to another by friction. This problem is usually worse with darker shades. Reds are often a problem in this respect. This is a dyeing problem and can be dealt with in the dye house. Cross Grain Cut: The cutting of a pattern piece perpendicular to the selvedge of the fabric Crotch: Crotch Curve: The bottom of a rise curve. Crotch Depth: The straight distance from crotch to top of waistband in pants, shorts, etc. Crotch Point: The point on the pattern where the front or back rise intersects with the inseam. Curtain Waistband: A method of finishing the waist of a garment that is a separate sewn on facing that hangs below lower seam of waistband made of fabric other than shell that is interfaced/interlined or turned. Cut and Sew (Sweater): Sweater panels are knit to the body length of the largest size, the shape of the neckline, shoulders and armholes are cut out, smaller sizes are cut down. Cut On Placket: See definition for Placket. Cutting: Formation of garment pieces from layers (plies) of fabric by means of a die, laser or knife. Typically done on a long table. D Dart: A sewn wedge or diamond shaped tuck/seam used to make a garment conform to the curves of the body. Delamination: A separation in the bond between the fusible interlining and the piece goods. This can be total separation (total delamination) or partial separation (localized delaminiation). Denier: Weight measurement of yarns. Low numbers represent the finer sizes and the higher numbers represent the coarser/heavier sizes. Also see definition for Elastic Denier Die Cutting: Sharp metal outlines in the shape of pattern pieces used to cut plies of fabric in conjunction with either a click press or die cutting press. Typically used for smaller pattern pieces. Differential Shrinkage: Occurs when the piece goods and the interlining are not moving in sync and will cause distortion in the surface appearance of the garment part. Doghouse Stitch: See definition for Triangle Reinforce Stitch. Double Needle Centered See definition for Centered Over Seam Stitch. Over Seam: Double Turn Hem: See definition for Hem. Double Yoke/ Stylized See definition for Yoke. Yoke: Drape: See definition for Hang. Drawcord: See definition for Drawstring. Drawstring: A narrow string, ribbon, cord, or tube of fabric inserted into a casing and pulled up or tied to create shape and/or hold the garment to the body. Dress Form: See definition for Mannequin. D-Ring: “D” shaped piece of hardware often used to create an adjustable closure held together by a looped and stitched end of a belt. E Ease: The method of sewing together 2 components of varying seam lengths evenly distributing fullness so as not to cause gathers or puckers. See definitions for Tight, Moderate and Generous. Ease Over Body: The amount of room above body measurements needed in a garment to allow adequate movement when worn. Eighth Top Pocket: See definition for Slant Pocket. Elastic Braided: A narrow elastic band, often used as trimmings and bindings. Formed by plating several strands of yards and bare elastomers. Braided elastic usually becomes narrowed when elongated. Made on a circular braiding machine. Elastic Denier: The size or thickness of the yarn. Also thickness of spandex (The lower the number the weaker the spandex) Elastic Elastomers: Natural Rubber Thread Elastic Elongation: Stretch – measure 5” relaxed and pull to maximum; measurement result given in a %. Elastic Ends of Rubber: The number of strands of rubber used to manufacture a particular size or quality of elastic. Elastic Gauge: Thickness of rubber (The lower the number the stronger the rubber) Elastic Knitted: Fabric construction for interlocking series of looper of one or more yarns. Materials normally used are textured polyester yarns or textured nylon and bare spandex or extruded rubber. Made on a flat bed crochet machine. Elastic Modulus: Power (resistance to stretch), strength or tension of the elastic. The force required to pull the elastic to a specific stretch/length, determines the amount of pressure the elastic is putting on the wearer?s body. Elastic Non Roll: Elastic that has enough width wise stability so it does not bend, roll or crush across its width when worn. Made with monofilament thread. Elastic Recovery: Ability of elastic to retain its original length immediately after stretching and releasing. After stretching the elastic to its maximum capability. The elastic must return to 90% to 92% of its original length. Elastic Waistband: See definition for Waistband Elastic Woven: Primarily made up of warp yarns, fill yarns and covered spandex or covered extruded rubber. Generally thicker and denser due to the bulkiness of the covered elastomers and stitch formations. Made on a shuttle loom. Elastomeric: An end of spandex which has been covered or twisted with yarn. Embroidery: Fancy needlework or trimming using colored yarn, floss, cotton, silk or metallic threads. Enclosed Seam: See definition for French Seams. Ends of Rubber: The number of strands of rubber used to manufacture a particular size or quality of elastic. Execution: See definition for Construction. Exposed Seam: Seams in which the seam allowances are visible on the outside of the garment. Exposed Zipper: Zipper is set along folded edges of seam line with zipper teeth visible. Expression of Fit: Designer?s vision of how the garment should fit on the human form. The key elements of fit that are related to the styling of the garment include, but are not limited to, where the garment sits on the waist of the body and how tight fitting a garment is. It is possible for a garment to achieve an excellent fit, but still not have achieved the designer?s vision for fit. Extended Tab See definition for Waistband. Waistband: Eyelet: Small circular plastic or metal tube secured to fabric to form an opening. Can also be formed by a round embroidered opening. Can be decorative or used with cord. F Fabric: Cloth made of textile yarns or fibers by weaving, knitting, lace making, braiding, netting, or felting. Can also be made by bonding or non-woven methods. Fabric Hand Feel: See definition for Hand. Face: Surface of fabric designated in the weaving/knitting process to be used as the outside of a finished garment. Facing: Piece of fabric used to finish a raw edge. Facings are turned to the inside of a garment enclosing seams. Faggoting: Open-work embroidery done by drawing out horizontal threads of fabric, then tying the vertical threads in groups to produce open spaces, OR, decorative stitching that holds together two closely spaced folded edges of fabric with ornamental stitches. Fashioning Marks Raised “twists” that results from transferring loops to (Sweater): adjacent needles to decrease the width of the knitted panel, usually occurs in a series at neckline and armhole. Felled Seam: Process that conceals seam allowance between plies as they are folded together and topstitched through all layers. Female Closure: Fiber: Basic filament or strand from which yarns are made. Fibers are either short with natural materials or man- made materials which are made in long continuous filaments. Filament: A fiber of indefinite or extreme length as found in silk or synthetic fibers. Fill: Crosswise or horizontal yarn of a woven fabric that runs at right angles to the warp yarns or selvage. Findings: All the smaller items and trimmings that complete a garment. Maybe decorative material that adorns the garment. Fine Gauge A small knitted stitch usually 12 to 24 gauge. (Sweater): Finishing: All the final stages of preparing a garment for point of sale. Includes, but not limited to, washing, pressing, thread clipping, inspection, ticketing, etc. Fishtail For Definition see buttonhole. Buttonhole: Fit: How well a garment conforms to the 3-dimensional human body. Fit Model: Individual who represents the figure type of the intended guest used to evaluate the fit of garments. Fitting Ease: See definition for Ease Over Body. Flap Pocket: Flare Leg Silhouette: Flat Felled Seam: See definition for Felled Seam. Flat Finish: See definition for Set Flat. Flat Knit: Fabric knitted flat and has selvages. Flat Knit Collar: Floating Tack: See definition for Swing Tack. Fraying: Fraying is the unraveling of yarn in either the fill or warp direction. Free Hanging Lining not attached at garment hem. Lining: French Dart: See definition for Dart. French Fly Facing: A separate sewn on fabric tab or extension used to cover zipper teeth. It extends from bottom of zipper to waistband and buttons to inside of pants near waist. French Seams: Process where raw edges of a seam are enclosed between garment plies as they are turned over and stitched, forming a clean finish. French Tack: See definition for Swing Tack. Frog: Ornamental braided two piece garment closure forming button and loop Full Fashioned / Sweater panel is knit to shape by increasing and Knit to Shape decreasing the number of needles used during the (Sweater): knitting action. No cutting is required to obtain the desired panel shape. Full Needle Rib Double bed construct commonly used at start or (Sweater): placket; looks like 1X1 rib, but is more compact. Can be either link/loop attached (see linking/Looping Definition) or continuous knit attach. Full Placket: See definition for Placket. Fusible: Fabric containing heat sensitive adhesive for application using heat and pressure. Commonly seen on interfacing or decorative trims. G Gathering: See definition for Shirring. Gauge Elastic: See definition for Elastic Gauge Gauge (Sewing) The distance between needles on a sewing machine. Gauge(Knits/Sweaters): Denotes the number of needles per inch on a knitting machine. The larger the number (gauge) the finer the knit. Example 12 gg has 12 needles per inch vs 3 gg with 3 needles per inch. Gauntlet: A type of sleeve placket. Generous Ease: Loosely fits to body with a large amount of ease. Godet: Triangle shaped inset of fabric that creates fullness, or greater width. Typically used in skirts and bell-bottom pants. Gore: Skirt section that is wider at the hem than the waist, providing fullness and shaping to waist without using darts. Graded Pattern: Individual patterns for each size within a size range. Grading: The process of proportionately increasing or decreasing a core size pattern to create patterns accordingly in relationship to body growth. Grain: Warp or lengthwise direction of the fabric, running parallel to the selvage. Greige Fabric: See definition for Greige Goods. Greige Goods: Pronounced (gr or grzh). An unfinished fabric just off the loom or knitting machine. Grin Through: 1) The ability to see under layer of fabric or lining through the garment shell fabric due to color or fabric weight. 2) A printing term referring to either poor cover where the background shade shows through the print. Grommet: See definition for Eyelet. Gusset: Shaped piece of fabric inserted into a garment seam or slash opening to permit greater movement. Commonly found on underarms, crotch of pants, thermal underwear, and active wear. H Half Moon See definition for Sweat Patch. Patch: Half Moon Separate shaped piece of fabric that is not the full length of Stand: garment neckline and is inserted between garment neckline and collar. Used to help shape and fit collar to body. Half Placket: See definition for Placket. Hand: The tactile characteristics that make up a fabric. Handle: Refers to the texture/softness/feel of the elastic when being handled. Hand Stretch: A rough estimation for the elongation of a product. This should be used only as a tool for comparison. Hang: How fabric reacts on the human body after garment is sewn. Hasp: Fastener used in conjunction with a shank button. Commonly used on overall straps. Hem: A way to finish an opening. Hiking: A term used to describe the problem when a garment is not balanced and an area of the bottom opening is rising higher than the rest of the garment. Hollywood A method of finishing the waist by extending the body of Waistband: the garment to form the shaping of the waist. Usually clean finished with facing on the inside. Hook: See definition for Crotch Curve. Hook & Bar: A closure using a set of shaped metal plates, one which is curved to form a broad hook, the other a raised bar. Hook & Eye: A closure using a small metal hook on one side and either an embroidered loop or a small metal loop on the other side. Hook & Eye A fastening tape that has metal hooks on one side and Tape: either and embroidered or metal loop on the other side. Hook & Loop A fastening tape that has very small nylon hooks that Tape: mesh with loops on opposite tape. Commonly known as Velcro?. Horizontal See definition for Slant Pocket Slant Pocket: I Inseam: The seam on garments located between legs and runs from the crotch to the hem. Interfacing: Supporting fabric either sewn or fused to the body fabric for body, stability and shape. Commonly used in waistbands, plackets, collars, cuffs, and as reinforcement behind buttons and buttonholes. Interlining: See definition for Interfacing. Inverted Box Pleat: See definition for Box Pleat Invisible Zipper: Specially designed zipper, no lines of stitching is visible on the outside of the garment. Finished appearance is of a plain seam with only part of the tab visible on the outside of the garment. See definition for Scoop Pocket. See definition for Armhole. K Kangaroo Pocket: Usually a center front pocket that has the pocket bag attached to exterior of garment with two openings. Pocket can be one piece or split into two pieces by center front closure. Keyhole Buttonhole: For Definition see Buttonhole Kick Pleat: Clean finished opening at the sweep of a garment created by one side of garment overlapping the other to allow for movement. Kimono Sleeve: Kissing Zipper: Zipper is centered under two folded edges that meet at the center of the zipper teeth with two visible rows of parallel stitching. A specific type of concealed zipper. Knife Cutting: Cutting plies of fabric by means of a straight edge, band or rotary knife. Knife Pleat: For Definition see Pleat. Knit Fabric: Fabric constructed by interlocking a series of loops by hand or machine. Knit to Shape Panels are knit to the exact shape required to (Sweater): construct the sweater. Cutting is allowed at the neckline if needed. Knitted Elastic: See definition for Elastic Knitted L Lacing: Ribbon, cord, braid, or tubing in which two free ends are pulled alternately through opposing eyelets, grommets, buttonholes, or under hooks. Lapel: Shaped piece of fabric on center front opening above top closure which folds back to form a larger opening. Lapel Point: The widest distance on the lapel, usually forming a point. Lapped Seam: Process of attaching two or more plies of fabric simply by layering atop each other and stitching through all layers. Lapped V-Neck: See definition for Miter. Lapped Zipper: See definition for Zipper. Laser Cutting: Fabric is placed on a vacuum table using suction and plastic over the top layer to stabilize plies before cutting with laser. Layout: See definition for Marker. Lettuce Edge: A decorative hem used on knit fabrics. It is a dense overedge hem 20-30 stitches per inch that is formed by stretching fabric while it passes through a 504 or 505 overlock machine. Machine is set with differential feed to have extra ruffling than normal sewing. Various threads can be used but recommend to use textured nylon or textured poly. Ligne: Unit of measurement to measure button size. 40 ligne is equal to a diameter of 1 inch. Smaller the number, the smaller the button, and vice versa. Lining: A fabric replica of a garment sewn inside a garment. May be partially or fully lined. Hides inner construction, adds comfort, smoothness, warmth, and retains the shape of the outer layer. Loops of two knit to shape garment parts are run onto a series of regularly spaced points, joined by chain stitching on linking machine Linking / Looping (Sweater): Link/Loop Attached Placket View of Loops Lockstitch: See definition for 301 Looping (Sweater): A method of joining two sweater panels together. Connects two courses of loops together, STITCH FOR STITCH, with a chain stitch of self yarn. Creates the effect of uninterrupted knitting. Usually found in more expensive sweaters. Loose/Relaxed Fit: Fit of clothing is loose to body and has a moderate amount of ease. M Male, Non-Gender Closure: Mannequin: Model of the human body used to check the appearance of a garment Marker: A diagram or arrangement of pattern pieces for a style(s) or size(s) to be cut at one time, placed over plies of fabric. Pattern pieces fit tightly together for best fabric utilization. Match and Balance Refers to the matching and balancing of plaids at Plaids/Stripes: joining seams or garment openings so the same stripe matches horizontally on each side of garment. If pattern is a stripe, the same stripe is engineered at the same point on the body of the garment. Merrow: Brand name of a sewing machine. Commonly used to describe overlock 503. Miter: Creating an angled seam by cutting the 2 edges in a diagonal manner and stitching them together. Mitre: See definition for Miter. Mock/Folder Version of a French seam sewn with use of a folder, raw seam Set French allowance is encased between 2 rows of 301. Commonly used Seam: on woven tops, pants and dresses. Mock Fly: Looks like a functional fly but does not open. Moderate Fit to body with a small to medium amount of ease. Ease: Modulus: See definition for Elastic Modulus Monkey Paw See definition for Frog. and Loop: Monocord Formed from continuous filaments that have been bonded Thread: together. Monofilament Formed by extruding a continuous filament through a Thread: spinneret with a specified diameter - resembles a fishing line. Multifilament Formed by twisting together continuous filaments into a cohesive bundle. Thread: N Nap: An array of fiber ends protruding from the surface of one or both sides of a fabric and giving a fuzzy appearance. Produced by brushing, napping or raising the fibers. The nap may be in stripes or other patterns or may be sheared to obtain uniform length. Directional finish of a fabric created by raised yarns or brushing the surface. Nap feels smooth when touched in one direction, rough in the other. Nap Down: Nap will feel smooth when touched in this direction, color will appear dull or grayed. Nap Up: Nap will feel rough when touched in this direction, color will appear richer in this direction but nap will become crushed with wear. Natural Fibers: Fibers that are of animal, vegetable, or mineral origin. Examples are wool, linen, silk, cotton, jute, hemp, ramie, cashmere, and mohair. No Band Collar: Non Roll Elastic: See definition for Elastic Non Roll Non-Woven Fabric: Fabric constructed of fibers that have been held together by thermal, chemical, solvent, mechanical action, or combinations of these. O Off-Grain: 1) Fabric: Warp and filling yarns on woven fabrics are not at right angles to each other. 2) Pattern: Straight of grain line on pattern is not placed parallel with the warp and/or fill yarns on fabric. On-Grain: 1) Fabric: Warp and filling yarns on woven fabrics intersect each other at right angles. 2) Pattern: Straight of grain line on pattern is placed parallel with the warp and/or fill yarns of fabric. On-Seam Pocket: Pocket opening is placed in a seam of the garment with an interior pocket bag. Open Cut Work: Open-work embroidery done by drawing out horizontal threads of fabric, then tying the vertical threads in groups to produce open spaces, OR, decorative stitching that holds together two closely spaced folded edges of fabric with ornamental stitches. Overedge: See definition for Hem. Overlock Seam: Stitches in the 500 series. Oversized Fit: Fit of clothing is very loose to body and has a generous amount of ease. P Paired Plaid/Stripe: Refers to placement of plaid/stripe being the same on both sides of garment. Panels (Sweater): A sweater body front, back, or sleeve knit into the required shape or length. May be either cut and sew or knit to shape. Patch Pocket: A separate piece of material that is attached to a garment on all sides, except one, to form an opening. Spade Mitered Square Rounded Pattern: Outlines or shapes of individual garment sections when assembled together create a finished garment. Pattern Grading: Changing the dimensions of the pattern for different sizes according to grade rules. Pattern Making: The skill or act of creating outlines or shapes (patterns) and putting them together to create a finished garment. Pick: See definition for Fill. Pick Stitch: Decorative running single needle stitch. Used for topstitching on coats, jackets, dresses, etc. Picot: A row of small decorative loops or crocheted thread applied along an edge of a garment. Pinch Miter V-Neck: See definition for Miter. Pintuck: Formed by folding edge of fabric and sewing close to the folded edge, usually the same width throughout. It is made on the right side of fabric for decoration or to control fullness. Piping: Narrow strip of material with or without filling, used to ornament the seams or edges of garment. Piping Placket: A finished opening allowing the garment to expand when putting on the body. Found at the sleeve, or front and back neckline, waist or inseam. Plaid: A woven or printed pattern of various horizontal and vertical stripes of color in varying widths, running at right angles to form blocks. Pleat: Fold of fabric usually pressed flat but sometimes left unpressed, held together in a seam. Can be stitched down at the top or be heat set for permanent creases in polyester and nylon. Plot: See definition for Marker. Ply: One of a number of yarns twisted together, also one of a number of plied yarns twisted together to form a heavier yarn. Also can be one of a number of layers of fabric. Pocket: A small bag inserted or sewn into a garment that is open at the top or side used for carrying small items. Pocket Bag: Pouch of fabric that forms the functional part of a pocket. Polyurethane Tape: Also Quick Stretch or Elastomer. Clear elastic sewn into seams for reinforcement on knits. Porkchop Pocket: Form of a patch pocket usually used as front pocket on a pant, short or skirt. Pouch Pocket: See definition for Kangaroo Pocket. Pressed Open Seams: A finished seam that has been pressed back on each side of stitch line. Pressing: Process of using heat, pressure and/or moisture to create creases in a garment, flatten seams, or smooth fabric for shipping. Garments may also be pressed during construction. Production Pattern: Correct patterns of the tested and perfected pattern including the seam allowances, notches, and grain lines. Purl Edge Stitch/502: 504 Overedge stitch – formed with 20-30 stitches per inch. Standard seam width = 1/16” or 1.5 MM. It can slightly ruffle on knit due to the natural stretch of the fabric. Various threads can be used but recommend for knits to use textured poly or textured nylon thread. Q Quarter Top Pocket: See definition for Slant Pocket. Quilting: The production of a padded effect by stitching or other means in two layers of material with padding between. R Raglan Sleeve: See definition for Armhole. Railroad Stitch: See definition for Centered Over Seam Stitch. Raw Edge: Unfinished edge of a garment piece. Reach: See definition for Crotch Curve. Recovery: See definition for Elastic Recovery Rectangle Reinforcements: Rectangle shaped reinforcement topstitching. Reinforcements: Stitching or hardware used to add strength to areas of stress. Revere, Reveres: The collarless part of a lapel which turns back to show the reverse side (or facing). When combined with a collar, it becomes a lapel. Ring Snap: See definition for Snap. Rise: The length along curve of the seam that passes through the legs and up to the waistline. Rivet: Circular metal reinforcement. Commonly used at pocket corners. Rolling: When a waistband does not have enough wide wise stability it can bend, roll or crush across its width. This is most suspectible on elastic on wide waistbands. This can be overcome by increasing the density or by using a stiffer yarn of the weft. Ruche, Ruching: Pleated or gathered strip of fabric applied on top of garment for decoration. Ruler Pocket: A tall, narrow pocket on the back leg of carpenter style pants. S Saddle: See definition for Crotch Curve. Saddle Raglan Sleeve: See definition for Armhole. Sample Garment: Garment made by a sample maker for fit and construction evaluation. Necessary in order to perfect and rework pattern and design before production. Scoop Pocket: Usually a front pocket on a pant, short and/or skirt that has a curved opening edge that starts at waistband seam or edge and ends at the side seam with an interior pocket bag. Screenprint: Method of printing designs and/or wording on fabric or garments by pushing color through patterned screens. Seam: The result of a series of stitches or fusing joining together two or more plies of fabric. May be used for decorative purposes. Seam Allowance: Width of fabric between the seam line and the raw edge of fabric. Seam Grin: The opening of a seam while under stress. The threads of the seam are shifting and not the yarns of the fabric. Tension may need to be adjusted or increase SPI. Seam Slippage: When fabric pulls away from stitches due to stitch or seam having a higher strength than the fabric. Self Start (Sweater): A technical term for the bottom edge of a sweater body and sleeve. Clean finished edge created by a knitting machine. Used instead of hemmed edge. 1X1 Rib Self Start Tubular self start – double layer, clean Finished inside and out. Selvage: Narrow tightly woven band on either edge of fabric parallel to the warp yarns that prevents fabric from raveling. Also the lengthwise edges of flat knit fabrics. Separating Zipper: Serge: See definition for Overlock. Set Circular: One component joined to another in a circular manner. The closure seam on each component is sewn first before joining together. Set Flat: One component joined to another in a flat manner. The closure seam of both components is sewn second as a single seam. Set-in Sleeve: See definition for Armhole. Sewn in the Round: See definition for Set Circular. Sew-On Placket: See definition for Placket. Shadow Stripe: An effect made in fabric to give a stripe effect. Usually a plain weave that has alternate stripes of Z and S twists in warp yarns. Used in shirtings. Shank Button: See definition for Button. Shell: See definition for Body Fabric Shell Stitch: Made with overedge machine with a special set up that forms the thread around the edge of the fabric in a shell appearing configuration. Shirring: The drawing together of fabric to produce fullness in a certain area such as tops of skirts, sleeves, etc. Gathers. Shoulder Pad: Shaped pad filled with fibers or foam used as a separate piece and tacked to the inside shoulder seam of a jacket or shirt to create the illusion of broad or square shoulders. Show Through: See definition for Grin. Side Seam Pocket: See definition for On-Seam Pocket. Single Turn Hem: See definition for Hem. Single Yoke: See definition for Yoke. Skew: Crosswise yarns slant across the fabric instead of being perpendicular to the lengthwise yarns. As a result the side seams of garments made from this fabric may twist around the body. Skewed: See definition for Bow. Slant Pocket: A front pocket on a pant, short and/or skirt that have an angled opening edge that starts at waistband seam or edge and angles to a point at the side seam with an interior pocket bag. The opening of pocket may be more horizontal or vertical as illustrated in pictures below. Based on the angle/placement of opening, specific terms of Quarter top, Eighth top or slash may be used. Slash Pocket: See definition for Slant Pocket. Sleeve Cap: The part of the sleeve that is sewn into the Armhole of a garment. Sleeve Head: See definition for Sleeve Cap. Sleeve Header: Separate strip of material sewn into sleeve cap of jackets and blazers to provide better shaping and stabilizing for the cap. Sleeve Placket: See definition for Placket. Slim Fit: Fit of clothing is close to body and has a limited amount of ease. Slim Leg Silhouette: Slip Lining: See definition for Free Hanging Lining. Slit: See definition for Vent. Sloper: Basic pattern from which all other patterns are designed. It has minimal ease so that it fits snugly to the body and has no style lines added to it. It is good starting point for pattern making because it is properly balanced. Smocking: Technique that uses decorative stitches to gather and hold the fabric together in even accordion-like pleats. Snap: Metal or plastic fastener used to close the garment or two components. One side consists of a socket and the other a ball. Snap Tape: A fastening tape that has socket on one side and a ball on the other. Split Seams: See definition for Pressed Open Seam. Spreading: Term used for laying fabric on a cutting table one layer on top of another either by a manual spreader or electronically operated fabric spreading machine. Spun Sewing Thread: Made from staple fibers that are spun into a singles yarn and then plied to make a sewing thread. Spun Yarn: Yarn made from staple fibers that are spun into a yarn that is then used in both knit and woven fabrics. Staple Fiber: Short fibers (typically 1-1.5” long) from either natural sources, or as a result of cutting filament fibers into shorter lengths. Stay Stitch: Sewing operation to hold the shape of a garment piece before it is attached to another. Usually a longer stitch length. Stays: Stitch: Formation of thread(s) for the purpose of making a seam. Stitch Depth: Distance between the upper and lower surface of the stitch. Stitch Length: Number of stitches per inch in a line of stitching. Stitch Width: See definition for Gauge. Stitching: A series of stitches used for ornamental purposes, edge finishing, seam construction or embroidery. Stitch-in-the-Ditch: Straight stitches placed in the crevice between the garment and the binding or band. Stitches should not be easily visible. Storm Flap: A facing sewn into center front seam of outerwear to prevent wind / cold / rain from coming in through zipper teeth and reaching wearer. Straddle Stitch: See definition for Centered Over Seam Stitch. Straight Grain Cut: The cutting of a pattern piece parallel to the selvedge of the fabric Straight Leg Silhouette: Straight Standard For Definition see Buttonhole Buttonhole: Horizontal Vertical Straight Tack: See definition for Backtack. Straight Waistband: See definition for Waistband. Stride: See definition for Crotch Curve. Stylized Button Parallel See definition for Button. Attached: Stylized Waistband: See definition for Waistband. Sundries: See definition for Findings. Surplus Pocket: See definition for Porkchop Pocket. Sweat Ketch: See definition for Sweat Patch. Sweat Pad: See definition for Sweat Patch. Sweat Patch: Back neck facing in a semi-circle shape in the back of shirt or jacket. Sweater Finish: A method for finishing open stitches on a sweater, such as tubular binding or crocheted edge. Also see Cast Off. Sweater Start: Sweater Trim: A part of the sweater that is knit separately and linked /looped attached or knit continuous to body as stitch transfer. Swing Tack: Method of attaching lining to shell with strip of fabric or crochet chain of thread. Synthetic Fibers: Fibers made totally by chemical means. Examples: Acetate, Nylon, Spandex and Polyester. T Taped Reinforced Seams: Seam reinforced with an additional layer of tape or material. Taped Seams: See definition for Taped Reinforced Seams. Taping: A strip of fabric or trim used to clean finish an edge on one side of garment. Topstitched. Is visible on one side of garment only. Fabric Edge Taping Side View Taping-Applied: Overlaid fabric strip or component sewn to garment. Depending on width or aesthetics more than 1 row of stitching is required. Textured Sewing Thread: Formed from continuous filaments of Nylon or Polyester that has been entangled by mechanical or other means. Thermal Shock: Too much heat and too fast through the fusing press. This can trigger a change in the color of the piece goods, contribute to excessive shrinkage or even a high level of distortion. Thread: Yarn for use with a needle or sewing machine, in various thickness, fiber contents, and strengths. Thread Tension: Balance of force on threads forming stitches or stitching. Degree of compression of fabric created by stitching. Too tight tension creates seam pucker, imbalance stitches, weakened thread, and damaged fabric. Too loose tension creates excess looping of thread, loose stitches, and skipped stitches. Through Room: See definition for Crotch Curve. Tight Ease: Closely fits to body with no ease. Tipped Flat Knit Collar: Tipping: A contrast stripe at edge of garment or trim; commonly found at collars, sweeps, cuffs, and plackets. Toggle: See definition for Cordlock. Toggle Button: A paired closure formed by 2 loops, 1 of which has a bar shaped button affixed. Tolerance: Difference between the allowance minimum and maximum of a specification or standard. Top Over Bottom/ Bottom See definition for Yoke. Over Top Yoke: Topstitching: One or more rows of stitching penetrating all plies on the face of the garment parallel to the fabric edge or seam line. Can be decorative or used to hold a seam or facing flat. Torque: A term used to describe twisting towards front or back of a garment?s side seams. Typically seen on a knit fabric. Total Rise Ease: The total amount of fabric that can be pinched out when the garment is at the specified waist position on the mannequin. Rise ease should always be expressed as a 0.5” range. Example: Total Rise Ease: 1” – 1.5”. Track Stitch: See definition for Centered Over Seam Stitch. Trapunto: A type of quilting in which the design or part of a garment is outlined with multiple rows of stitching. Treetop Stitch: See definition for Triangle Reinforce Stitch. Triangle Reinforce Stitch: Triangle shaped reinforcement topstitching. Trims: See definition for Findings. Tubular Knit: Fabric knitted on cylinders in a tubular shape. No selvages are formed. Tubular (Sweater): A finishing method for jersey sweater knits in which a double layer of sweater knit is folded over the edge of the garment encasing it. It is then link/loop attached. If sweater knit is rib then it should be written as 1x1 rib doubled, not tubular. Tuck: See definition for Pleat. Tunnel: See definition for Casing. Turtling: The extreme pebbled texture of a leather skin found near the extremities (neck, legs) considered a lower grade. Twill Tape: Narrow woven tape with a twill weave used to finish/reinforce seams. Can also be used for decoration. Two- Hole Button: See definition for Button. Two Way Plaid Match: Applies only to plaids. The design on one pattern piece is matched horizontally and vertically to the design on an adjacent piece. This usually done at front plackets and pockets. U Underarm Point: See definition for Armhole Point. Underlining: A second layer of fabric cut to duplicate a garment section, applied to the back of the outer ply. The two plies are then handled as one ply during construction. Understitch: Stitching applied close to a seam on a facing or underside of a garment section to prevent that section from rolling to the face side of the garment. This stitching is not visible from the outside of garment when on body. V Vent: An opening in the edge of a garment used to release tension or provide ease of movement in the garment. Vertical Slant Pocket: See definition for Slant Pocket W Waistband: Top edge treatment of any garment worn on the lower half of the body. Waist Darts: See definition for Dart. Wale: 1) Term for a vertical or lengthwise row of loops in a knit fabric. 2) Term for vertical rows in a woven piece of fabric (i.e. corduroy). Warp Yarn: Set of yarns found in woven fabric running lengthwise and interwoven with fill, or weft, yarns. Weft Yarn: See definition for Fill. Welt Pocket: Inset pocket with a welted edge either above or below the opening. When both edges have welts it is called a double welt. Western Pocket: See definition for Scoop Pocket. Wind Flap: See definition for Storm Flap. Wide Leg Silhouette: Wing Pocket: See definition for Scoop Pocket. Workmanship: The overall quality of topstitching, seams, sewing or construction in a garment. Woven Elastic: See definition for Elastic Woven. Woven Fabric: Produced on a loom and constructed by interlacing warp and filling yarns. Y Yarn: Fibers twisted together for weaving/knitting purposes. Yoke: The upper part of a garment that fits the shoulder or hip area. Used to control gathers or pleats or to eliminate the need for darts. Yokes can serve as a decorative as well as a functional design detail. Z Zig Zag Stitch (304): Stitch is formed with a needle and a bottom that are set in the center of the seam and form a symmetrical zig-zag pattern. Also, used to identify bartacking and lockstitch button sewing and buttonholing. Zipper: A closure made of plastic coils or plastic or metal teeth that are on a woven tape that interlaces to open and close with a slider and pull. Zipper Placket: See definition for Placket.