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Introduction
book about knots is a book
about personal organization
on the real world level,
where shoelaces untie,
packages fall apart, and
clotheslines droop. This
is life's ground floor, the everyday battle
against the small-scale forces of chaos. In
the course of a modern lifetime, it is not
the struggle that receives the most notice,
but it is the one that seems to consume
the most time.
Knots are tools employed in this noble
cause. They are meant to connect and
thus to simplify. Despite the popular mis-
conception, a properly tied knot is gener-
ally distinguished by its simplicity and
the ease with which it can be untied, not
by its strength or complexity. Any mixed-
up tangle of rope can be reasonably
strong but it would be neither appropri-
ate to the job, nor simple to undo. It
would be, as most one-of-a-kind knots
are, an over-elaborate solution to the
problem. And a pain in the neck besides.
There exists, in the knotting literature,
approximately
In choosing <^
this book, ^ / '
remorse- / y
Basic, {
r U
4,000 different knots,
the 24 that went into
we kept to a single
less criteria:
work-a-day,
mal-life, 9-to-5
utility. Remember-
ing that most of our
readers have forsak-
en the sea, and are
neither woodsmen,
wranglers nor
soldiers of fortune,
we left off such
things as the mule-
packers' dia-
mond hitch, an
excellent knot
for loading up trail animals, and in-
cluded the short-end sheet bend, a
specialist in the repair of broken shoe-
laces. Less romantic perhaps, but oc-
casionally we have to face these kinds
of realities.
But Which Is Really the
BEST Knot?
A true landlubber's question, but one
that is inevitably raised. The correct
answer should be the responsible—
albeit boring—"It depends." Are you
knotting together sheets for an open-
air exit from a burning hotel? Or are
you tying up your hair?
But let's say you've really only got
room for two or three
your long-term
files. If such were the
I could be
knots in
memory
case,
forced
to recom-
mend the
bowline (#1),
the sheet bend
(#7), and the clove
hitch (#2). The three of them are the class
of the three primary knot categories—
loop knots, rope-to-rope knots (bends),
and rope-to-something-else knots
(hitches). Between them, they should get
you into most binds.
Incidentally, the opposite question,
Which is really the worst knot? is far
simpler to answer. As disillusioning
as this sounds, it's the square
knot, the most over-hyped, under-
strength knot in creation. Clifford Ashley,
the author of the definitive encyclopedia
on the subject of knotting, states that the
square knot".. . has probably been re-
sponsible for more deaths and injuries
than all other knots combined."
The reason is that the square knot "cap-
sizes," i.e. it unties itself. A couple of
quick tugs on the rope, or an inadvertent
bump, and the honest square knot turns
into thin air, an unhappy result that dem-
onstrates the difference between a
"strong" knot, one that weakens the
rope the least, and a "secure" knot, one
that resists unraveling. In the normal
course of things, it's "security" that'll
carry the day, not "strength."
How to use this book
This is a tool-book, that is to say, it is
meant to be more than just read. All
those knots which are designed to be
tied to something, can be tied to the
board pages of this book, next to their
illustrations.
A word of general advice. To the tying of
any knot, there are two parts: one,
crossing the ropes in the right order; and
two, working the knot closed—tighten-
ing it. This second part is occasionally
more difficult than the first, and almost
always as crucial. On some knots, the
shoelace bow for instance, all you need
is a simple tug to bring the knot into
place. But on others, the short-end sheet
bend or the bow tie, for example, work-
ing the knot shut is practically the
entire problem.
nfortunately, it's a
problem that illustra-
tions can only help
with a little, because
it's such a general
"pulling-together"
kind of process. What
it requires is a reason-
ably clear idea of where the knot is going.
My best advice is to work the ropes
gradually at the final stage, pulling all the
loose ends in turn until you discover
which pull or which tug shapes the knot
in the ways that you want.
A Glossary of Terms
Knot. Any lump in Bend. A knot join-
the rope. ing two ropes.
Hitch. A knot
joining a rope to
something else.
Loop. A knot join-
ing a rope to itself.
Overhand.
Half-Hitch. Slipped. A "quick
release" modification.
1 The Bowline
If you were marooned on a desert island and
could only take one knot with you, this would be
the one. Properly tied in ordinary rope, there is
little danger of the bowline slipping before the
breaking point of the rope itself is reached—a
comforting thought if you should ever have to tie
a rope around your waist. And nearly as impor-
tant, the bowline is easy to untie, even after hav-
ing been dunked in water and put under load.
Like most knots, the bowline's origins were on
board the full-rigged sailing ships where it was
used almost to the exclusion of all other loop
knots, and where it was said that ". . . the devil
himself would make a good sailor, if he could
only tie a bowline and look aloft."
If you should ever have to deal with particularly
thick or stiff materials—a rolled-up bedspread for
example, or anything cable-like, one of the best
ways to join them is with two interlocking bow-
lines.
The Clove Hitch
My favorite nearly-all-
purpose hitch. Simple
to tie, simple to untie
and won't jam under
strain. There are
better hitches if you're
especially concerned
about security, and if
you're attaching a rope
to a square s h a p e -
like a piece of lum-
ber—the clove is not
appropriate, but for
your run-of-the-mill,
The only other con-
tender for the title of
All-Purpose Hitch.
More common than the
clove, probably be-
cause it seems easier
to tie (although it
really isn't). Neverthe-
less, on shapes and in
places where the clove
won't go, two half
hitches is probably the
best choice, both for
simplicity and security.
The slipped variation
is particularly impor-
tant, since this knot
can often be tough to
untie without it.
A specialist, but a par-
ticularly good one. The
tautline hitch is used
mainly when you need
to keep a rope tight
that tends to sag over
time (clotheslines, tent
guys, etc.). The taut-
line holds in one di-
rection, but can be slid
in the other, when
slack has to be taken
out. It's a one-way
"ratchet" knot, the
best of its kind.
tie-this-thing-to-that-
post kind of problem,
the clove is your best
choice.
Note the slipped varia-
tion for quick release.
The Two Half Hitches
The Tautline Hitch
2
3
4
The Better Bow
You only think you know
how to tie your shoes.
The better bow unties
with a simple tug, just
like the soon-to-be-out-
dated model you have
on your shoes right
now, but the difference
is—it doesn't jiggle
loose. Learn it and
you'll never go back, I
promise.
As the illustrations
show, there's only one
crucial difference be-
tween this knot and the
old style. Instead of
taking a single turn
around the middle of
the loops, you'll take
two. Be sure to wrap
both these turns around
the end of your finger.
When you withdraw
your finger, the "hole"
it leaves is the place
where you push the
second loop through.
The Bow Tie
This may come as a
minor revelation, but
the knot you tie on your
shoes (old style) is the
same knot you tie
around your neck—at
least the finished prod-
uct is the same. The
difference is how you
get there.
You can practice with
cord, as per the illus-
tration, but to really get
the idea, you need flat
material, ideally the
real thing. Follow the
steps as illustrated
while remembering that
the trick is in the last
step—pulling the whole
thing into shape.
5
6
7 The Sheet Bend
This is the knot that you thought the square
was—a strong, simple, honest, easy-to-tie con-
nection. One that you can trust. In the same way
that the clove and bowline are, the sheet bend is
an all-star knot, the basic of its category.
The doubled variation is a bit more secure. I'd use
it if something important was on the line.
8 The Square Knot
Originally this was known as the reef knot, used
on board ship to secure the furled-in sails, not a
particularly critical application. Somewhere
along the way, though, it picked up a reputation
for reliability that it most certainly doesn't de-
serve. As mentioned in the introduction, it is a
rather unstable knot, capable of capsizing if
bumped or jiggled in the wrong way, particularly
if tied in dissimilar materials.
Offsetting these qualities is the fact that you al-
ready know how to tie it. As a result, I include it
here for all the lightweight applications, bundle
and parcel wrapping for example.
The surgeon's variation, incidentally, is the one
to use when there's no one around to lend a third
hand when you've got the knot half-tied on top of
some box.
The Surgeon's Variation
Doubled Variation
As its name suggests, the fisherman's knot is
used quite frequently to join together two pieces
of fishing line—to form a leader, for example.
With cold or wet hands, it is far simpler to tie
than the sheet bend. In larger materials it makes
a strong, clean and neat looking connection. I
have used it in places where it will be both visi-
ble and permanent.
10
The Grass Bend
Another specialist. Tied in rope or cord this is
called the whatnot and ranks near the bottom in
terms of security. But in flat semi-flexible mate-
rial (seat belt webbing, leather belts, etc) it
changes its character entirely. It is, in fact, the
best, if not the only, useful knot for joining this
kind of hard-to-knot material.
11 The Trucker's Hitch
The trucker's hitch is actually a combination of
knots put together in order to get some leverage
on the tightening process. It is a super knot for
cinching down a load. Properly tied, you can get
a line guitar-strumming tight with this hitch.
In order to practice this knot here, start with a
bowline. Tie it behind the board page and insert
half of the resulting loop through the slot. The
other end of the cord comes through the hole
punched in the board and is threaded through the
exposed part of the bowline loop. Follow the il-
lustrations for the remainder of the process, not-
ing that the final step is two half hitches.
12 The Constrictor Knot
Clifford Ashley invented this arrangement of rope,
making it one of the very few knots with an iden-
tifiable source. It is a supremely good knot for
"seizing" bundles of loose material, or for clos-
ing the necks of bags. I've used it in a lot of
places as a substitute for tape to bundle things
up. Simple to tie, it will not work loose, possess-
ing a ratchet-like bulldog grip. As a result of
these fine qualities though, it's best untied with a
sharp knife.
13 The Ring Knot
Probably most familiar
as the knot you use with
a rubber band, the ring
knot is the ultimate in
security when you're deal-
ing with a closed loop,
but it's also used occasion-
ally with a loose end,
as it is illustrated here.
14 The Prusik Knot
This is a climber's
knot, and you'll proba-
bly never need it. But
on the other hand, if
you're ever faced with a
vertical rope that you
have to climb, the pru-
sik could be a potential
lifesaver.
Start with two short
pieces of cord, of
smaller diameter than
the rope you're intend-
ing to climb. These will
be your "footholds."
Make the two cords into
two loops with single
sheet bends, as per the
illustration. (Or, even
better, use the doubled
variation.) Take one of
the loops and tie what
amounts to a twice-
through ring knot
around the vertical rope
(see the illustration).
Do the same with the
second loop. If the cord
you've tied the prusik in
has a smaller diameter
than the rope you'll be
climbing on, you'll be
able to slide this foot-
hold up, step in it, and
not have to worry about
it sliding back down.
I5 The Timber Hitch
Deceptively secure if
you tie it around a
rough surface, the tim-
ber hitch is childishly
easy to tie and never-
failingly simple to
undo. It's particularly
appropriate if the rope
is going to be under a
constant strain. On the
other hand, don't use it
when security is a high
priority, or when the di-
rection of the pull is
liable to jump around.
16 The Killeg Hitch
Actually just an application of the timber hitch,
the killeg is designed for big messy bundles or
odd shapes—a rock for example, or a duffel of
some kind. The killeg is the universal tie-on,
adaptable to most any shape.
17 The Sheep Shank
A knot designed to solve the problem of too much
rope, the sheepshank will take up slack and hold
it, as long as there's a strain on the rope. When
the job is over, you can shake it out with a cou-
ple of flips.
18 The Rolling Hitch
A near cousin to the
tautline hitch, the roll-
ing hitch is about the
best knot for staying put
on a pole when the pull
on it is lengthwise, up
or downwards. It's also
the knot of choice when
you're tying one rope to
the middle of another.
19 The Coil
Not really a knot, but a way to keep and arrange
rope so it stays tangle-free. It's simple to form,
keeps the rope neat, and comes undone in a sec-
ond when you need it.
Incidentally, the key, once again, is pulling the
whole thing snug at the end.
20 The Package Knot
The department-store-certified system—a neat,
no-slip combination of knots.
Start with a bowline and wrap the cord around
the page as the illustration indicates. On the
backside of the page, cross the cords as illus-
trated. It'll keep everything from sliding off the
corners. Finish up with the basic two half hitches
21 The Harness Loop
A simple little knot for putting a loop in the mid-
dle of a rope when you can't use the ends. Ash-
ley states that the knot was originally used in
hauling field artillery into place. Sounds exciting.
Personally, I use it the most when tying things
onto the top of my car.
22 The Short End Sheet Bend
A sub-specialist in the field of broken shoe laces,
the short end sheet bend is the knot to use when
one of the lace ends is so irritatingly short that
you can barely get a hold of it.
The only real trick to this is the last step, pulling
it all together. You have to work it a bit slowly
here, keeping an eye on where the whole thing is
supposed to be heading. Note, too, that the final
product is the familiar sheet bend—you've just
taken an alternative route in getting there.
23
Stopper knots are noth-
ing more than lumps in
the rope, designed to
mark a spot, or to keep
the rope from slipping
through some kind of
tight spot. The simplest
is the overhand knot,
described on page 2,
but just about as sim-
ple, and easier to untie
after having been really
tightened, is the Figure
8 stopper.
The Figure 8 Stopper
24 The Incredible Magic Loop
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