ChineseCostumesTheChinesecostume,whichhasover5,000years’history,isjustlikealongriver.Andtodaywe’llpresenttheminthreeparts,HanDynasty,TangDynastyandQingDynasty.Part1HanFuPart2CostumeinTangDynastyPart3CheongsamHanFuHanfuisalsoknownasHanzhuangorHuafu,isthetraditionaldressoftheHanChinesepeople.ThetermHanfuderivesfromtheBookofHan,whichsays,"thenmanycametotheCourttopayhomageandweredelightedattheclothingstyleoftheHan."(后数来朝贺,乐汉衣服
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)StandardstylehistorySpecificstyleGallerybodyHistoryHanfuhasahistoryofmorethanthreemillennia,andissaidtohavebeenwornbythelegendaryYellowEmperor.Fromthebeginningofitshistory,Hanfu(especiallyinelitecircles)wasinseparablefromsilk,supposedlydiscoveredbytheYellowEmperor’sconsort,Leizu.TheShangDynastydevelopedtherudimentsofHanfu;itconsistedofayi,andchang,wornwithabixi,.Vividprimarycolorsandgreenwereused,duetothedegreeoftechnologyatthetime.theWesternZhouDynasty,theHanfubecamelooser,withtheintroductionofwidesleevesandjadedecorationshungfromthesashwhichservedtokeeptheyiclosed.Theyiwasessentiallywrappedover,inastyleknownasjiaolingyouren,orwrappingtherightsideoverbeforetheleftIntheEasternZhouDynasty,the“deeprobe”(shenyi深衣)appearedacombinationoftunic(束腰外衣)andskirt.Theupperandlowerhalveswerecutseparatelybutsewnasasingleunit.Anadditionalchangewastheshapingoftheleftsideofthecostumeintoacorner,fastenedonthechest.womenmenSinceSongandYuan,officialrecordusedHanfutoindicategarmentsHanswearDuringLiaodynasty,theemperorofLiaoandHanofficialswearHanfu,andEmpressandKhitan(契丹)officialsweartheirnationalclothing.DuringYuandynasty,wheneditingHistoryofLiao,theofficialsespeciallymadeanentryforHanfuTheterm"Hanfu"todescribetheclothingsystemofHans,wasnotoftenusedwithinHans,butwasmoreoftenusedinotherethnicgroupsandnations,todistinguishtheHansclothingsystemandtheirownclothingsystemStandardstyleHatandheaddressInformaldressSemi-formalFormaldressCourtdressHatandheadwear--garmentThestyleofHanChineseclothingcanbesummarizedascontaininggarmentelementsthatarearrangedindistinctiveandsometimesspecificways.ThismaybedifferentfromthetraditionalgarmentofotherethnicgroupsinChina,mostnotablytheManchu-influencedChineseclothes,theqipao,whichispopularlyassumedtobethesolelyrecognizablestyleof"traditional"Chinesegarb.AcomparisonofthetwostylescanbeseenasthefollowingprovidesYi(衣):Anyopencross-collargarment,andwornbybothsexesPao(袍):Anyclosedfull-bodygarment,wornonlybymeninHanfuRu(襦):Opencross-collarshirtShan(衫):Opencross-collarshirtorjacketthatiswornovertheyiQun(裙)orchang(裳):SkirtforwomenandmenKu(褲):TrousersorpantsOntopofthegarments,hats(formen)orhairpieces(forwomen)maybeworn.Onecanoftentelltheprofessionorsocialrankofsomeonebywhattheywearontheirheads.Thetypicaltypesofmaleheadweararecalledjin(巾)forsoftcaps,mao(帽)forastiffhatsandguan(冠)forformalheaddress.Officialsandacademicshaveaseparatesetofhatsforthem,typicallytheputou(幞頭),thewushamao(烏紗帽),thesi-fangpingdingjin(四方平定巾;orsimply,fangjin:方巾)andtheZhuangzijin(莊子巾).Atypicalhairpieceforwomenisaji(笄)buttherearemoreelaboratehairpieces.InformaldressTypesincludetops(yi)andbottoms(dividedfurtherintopantsandskirtsforbothgenders,withterminologieschangorqun),andone-piecerobesthatwraparoundthebodyonceorseveraltimes(shenyi).(中衣)orzhongdan(中單):innergarments,mostlywhitecottonorsilk(衫裙):ashortcoatwithalongskirtRuqun(襦裙):atopgarmentwithaseparatelowergarmentorskirt(褲褶):ashortcoatwithtrousersZhiduo/zhishen(直裰/直身):aMingDynastystylerobe,similartoazhijushenyibutwithventsatthesideand'stitchedsleeves'(i.e.thesleevecuffisclosedsaveasmallopeningforthehandtogothrough)Daopao/Fusha(道袍/彿裟):Taoist/Buddhistpriests'fulldressceremonialrobesAtypicalsetofHanfucanconsistoftwoorthreelayersThefirstlayerofclothingismostlythezhongyi(中衣)whichistypicallytheinnergarmentmuchlikeaWesternT-shirtandpants.Thenextlayeristhemainlayerofclothingwhichismostlyclosedatthefront.Therecanbeanoptionalthirdlayerwhichisoftenanovercoatcalledazhaoshanwhichisopenatthefront.Semi-formaldressApieceofHanfucanbe"madesemi-formal"bytheadditionofthefollowingappropriateitems:chang(裳):apleatedskirtbixi(蔽膝):longfrontclothpanelattachedfromthewaistbeltzhaoshan(罩衫):longopenfrontedcoatguan(冠)oranyformalhatsFormaldressXuanduan(玄端):averyformaldarkrobe;equivalenttotheWesternwhitetieShenyi(深衣):alongfullbodygarment(曲裾):diagonalbodywrapping(直裾):straightlapelsYuanlingshan(圓領衫),lanshan(襴衫)orpanlingpao(盤領袍):closed,round-collaredrobe;mostlyusedforofficialoracademicaldressCourtdressCourtdressisthedresswornatveryformaloccasionsandceremoniesthatareinthepresenceofamonarch(suchasanenthronementceremony).Theentireensembleofclothingcanconsistofmanycomplexlayersandlookveryelaborate.Courtdressissimilartothexuanduanincomponentsbuthaveadditionaladornmentsandelaborateheadwear.Theyareoftenbrightlycoloredwithvermillionandblue.Therearevariousversionsofcourtdressthatarewornforcertainoccasions.SpecificStyleHistorically,HanClothinghasinfluencedmanyofitsneighbouringculturalcostumes,suchasJapanesekimono,yukata,KoreanHanbokandtheVietnameseáotứthân.ElementsofHanfuhavealsobeeninfluencedbyneighbouringculturalcostumes,especiallybythenomadicpeoplestothenorth,andCentralAsianculturestothewestbywayoftheSilkRoad.gallerynotesCostumeinTangDynasty1、ThebriefintroductionofcostumeinTangdynasty2、ThefeaturesofcostumeinTangdynasty3、HowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?BriefIntroductionTheclothingmaterialswereexquisite(精美的)Thestructurewasnatural,gracefulandelegantAdornmentsweresplendidComplimentedbyelaboratehairstyle,ornamentsandfacemakeupThegeneralfeaturesofwomen’scostumeinTangdynasty:1)topless(上空装,袒胸装)2)exposedarm3)oblique(斜的)collar4)largesleeves5)longskirtdressAllofthesemakeitdeservethemosttypicalopenclothingstyle.Theclothingmaterialsareexquisite,thestructureisnatural,gracefulandelegant,andadornmentsaresplendid.Thisisthefamouspicture《簪花侍女图》showingaladystrollinginthecourtTheladywaswearingaleno-madeuppergarment,high-waistskirtandwithoutunderdress.Thiswascalled“topless”(上空装,袒胸装)Mindedness:theopen-mindedstate“绮罗纤缕见肌肤”“蝉翼罗衣白玉人”Theopenclothingstyleanditssoftnessandlightnessmakethewomen’scostumeinTangdynastysouniqueanddistinctive.TheTangwomendressedinsetsofgarments,andeachsetauniqueimageinitself.Ingeneral,theTangwomen'sdressescanbeclassifiedintothreecategories:(1)ThetraditionalruqunordoublelayeredorpaddedshortjacketthatistypicalofcentralChinaPattern—襦裙(Ruqun)Ruqun(襦裙)iswornbywomen.Whenitscollarlikestheletter“y”,wecancalledit“交领襦裙”.Ifitscollarlikesthenumber“11”,wecancalledit“对襟襦裙”.Whentheyareclassifiedbyitsheightoftheskirt,wecancalledthem“齐腰襦裙”——Whichwaistbandisonthewaist.Or“齐胸襦裙”——Whichwaistbandisabovethechest.(2)thehufu,oraliendressthatcamefromtheSilkRoad;(3)Cross-Dressing(namely,girlsdressedasboys),thefullsetofmalegarmentsthatbrokethetraditionoftheConfucianformalities拘谨,礼节.AfterthereignofTangEmperorGaozong,purplewasusedasthegarmentcolorforofficialsabovethethirdgrade;lightred,officialsabovethefifthgrade;darkgreen.officialsabovethesixthgrade;lightgreen,officialsabovetheseventhgrade;darkcyan,officialsabovetheeighthgrade;lightcyan,officialsabovetheninthgrade;andyellow,ordinarypeopleandthosewhodidnotliveinthepalace. HowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?First,inChinesehistory,theTangDynasty(AD618-907)wasaperiodofunityandprosperitywhenthepolityandeconomywerehighlydeveloped.MaterialisticabundanceandarelativelyrelaxedsocialatmospheregavetheTangDynastyanunprecedentedopportunitytodevelopculturally,reachingitsheightinpoetry,painting,musicanddance.Second,Basedontheprogressmadeinsilkreelinganddyeingtechniques,thevariety,qualityandquantityoftextilematerialsreachedanunprecedentedheight.Thestructureisnatural,gracefulandelegant,andadornmentsaresplendid.Asanimportantculturalelement,woman’scostumeinvariousformsintheTangDynastywellillustratestheopen-mindednessandaffluenceduringthatperiod.Third,TheTanggovernmentwastolerant,andoftenappreciativeofreligions,artandculturefromtheoutsideworld.ThoughtheformsofgarmentswerestillthecontinuationoftheHanDynasty(206BC-220AD)andtheSuiDynasty(581-618),theyhavedistinctivestylesbyitselfbeinginfluencedbyculturesandartsoftheWesternRegions.Willyouacceptyourgirlfriends/yourselvesdressingveryopen?OriginDevelopmentOrigin——nameThenamecheongsammeaningsimplylongdressenteredtheEnglishvocabularyfromthedialectofChina'sGuangdongProvince.InotherpartsofthecountryincludingBeijing,however,itisknownas"qipao",whichhasahistorybehindit.●QingDynasty(1644),Manchu,BannerPeople(qiren).●1645Shunzhi,“TifaYifu”Policy(剃发易服)thenext300years,becameadoptedbytheChinese.●Survivedthepoliticalturmoilofthe1911XinhaiRevolutiontoppledtheQingDynasty.ThehistoryofcheongsamThedetailsofcheongsam●shirtisnotexposed(衫不露外)●theright-sidelapel[lə'pel]ofjunction[ˈdʒʌŋkʃən]decoratedwithbuttons(偏襟右衽以盘纽为饰)●clothingplusclothing(衣外加衣)●increasewaistcoat['weɪskəʊt]orjacket(增加坎肩或马褂)●clothesdonotgetthewaistdown(衣服上下不取腰身)●Rectangularoutline(外轮廓呈长方形)●Horseshoe-shapedsleevecoverhand(马蹄袖盖手)●setrollingcraftdecoration(镶滚工艺装饰)●flowerpotshoes(花盆鞋)Frog盘扣Openings衩Embroidery[ɪm'brɔɪdərɪ]刺绣Frontofagarment襟DevelopmentFrom1914to1949DevelopmentFrom1914to19491930~1940,Peakperiodwestern-stylecuttingmethodstandardclothingofthemodernChinesewomen1920s1930s 1940sQipao(Ch'ipau)isoneofthemosttypical,traditionalcostumesforChinesewomen.Alsoknownascheongsam,itislikeawonderfulflowerintheChinesecolorfulfashionscenebecauseofitsparticularcharm.ItcandisplayChinesewomen'smodesty,softnessandbeauty.Today,withthedevelopmentofthemarketeconomyinChina,Qipaohasbeentheattentionofthewholeworld,andbecomestherepresentativeofChinesebeauty.SoongQinglingthewifeofSunYat-sen,agreatwomaninChinaSoongMaylingSheownsthemostnumberofqipaoallovertheworld.AsaformalcostumeswhichrepresentournationalculturefrequentlyappearesintheiInternationaloccasions.Firstlady’sstyleChinaisahistoricalcountrywithsplendidcivilizations,inwhichtheChinesecostumeisanimportantpart.FromthechangeofChinesecostumes,wecanseethepoliticalchange,economicdevelopmentandcustomsevolvementthroughthelonghistory.Let’sfellowthehistory’sstep,composeanewchapterfortheChinesecostumeculture!Thanksforyourattention!